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I agree I never gapped the one in my 150.
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150's generally don't need a spark plug gap modification, as they have a better stator.
As far as gapping the spark plug, you don't need to break the center pin. You can bend the arm a bit, and if it's bent too much, bent it back with a screw driver without even touching the center pin. The outside arm is fairly bendable, so it's not like you will break it anytime soon (unless you perhaps plan on bending it 90 degrees or more. |
Hey I'm back. My computer got infected so I'm on my phone right now lol. I went to advance auto and they didn't have the cr7hix in stock. So I went to autozone and they didn't have it either so they said they could order it but that I would have to gap it. I said to the m that dont sound like the plug I'm wanting as u guys said it would come pre gapped. I also bought a 5 quart jug of 10 40 castrol. And some seafoam. My next question is how much oil will I be pitting in this scoot since the manual doesn't tell me these things lol.
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Less than a quart ir until the stick says it full ;)
just have them order the plug it will be pregapped don't worry about what the highly trained auto parts specialist tells you... |
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around 750 ml of oil or 3/4 of a quart and do not pay much attention to what the autozone or advance says about a scooter
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K got my computer back up and running now. Thanks. Glad to see it wont take too much since 5 quarts was 15 or 16 dollars lol. I'll be doing my first change at 100km unless you think I should do it sooner? I think I remember someone saying that they don't even put real oil in there before I buy it. As of right now I'm immobilized do to the winter storm that just hit the central area. Had a tarp over it. came back home yesterday and the snow hand got heavy enough to pull the tarp towards the seat and my entire front end was covered in snow. and I was out of extra bungee cords so i ran inside grabbed a broom brushed the snow off and ripped apart some rca cables for the dvd player and strung it through extra holes on the tarp lol. And while I'm here figured I'd ask you guys another question. My eye sight is terrible. And on my zuma and a couple other scooters the headlights SUCKED lol. I haven't driven this thing at night yet. As you know the scooter comes with this type of bulb minus the nipple on it
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-NARVA-S2...b083c8&vxp=mtr I was curious if I might gain some light by adding 2 of the following lights to the scooter. I know the LED ones would fit and work. But I'm not sure if the zenon lamp at 35w would cause either melting to the assembly/housing or if it would be and over load for the wiring. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-H6-BA20D-...d308f6&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Xenon-Lamp-3...85c238&vxp=mtr |
[QUOTE=teddy554;517683]
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Not quite He still has a ways to go to match the performance of my "April" :yay::yay: Highest speed yet to date 63mph at 11,000 rpms http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8370/8...c37e22a97c.jpg Sr 50 top speed by inuyasha50, on Flickr Take care and ride safely dear friend Yours Hank |
EzPeazy!
My 150 does 63MPH, @7,5k RPM! |
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If you have a Zuma, the max you can put in there are 35W lights. You've got 2 of them, so they should give you maximum visibility on any scooter available! |
@prodigit yeah I have heard that LEDS don't have as much throw power as normal incandescent bulbs. But I'm not sure if I understood your second part correctly. You say if I have a zuma the max I can put in is 35w But I don't have a zuma anymore it was stolen years ago. Unless you are comparing and saying that I could use them two xenon bulbs in my current scooter? As I imagine they are MUCH brighter than the stock regular looking incandescent bulbs. I'm going to need all the light I can get since I live out in a countryish area. roads with pot holes. deers. sharp country curves with no warning signs. And it doesn't help that my vision is so bad. I literally have to hold a bic lighter 4 inches from my face with out my glasses on to be able to see it clearly. of course I wouldn't ever dare riding with out my glasses lol.
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A friend of mine just put 35/35 watt bulbs(bought from scrappydoggscooters) in is handsomeboy scooter same style has yours and it melted the whole housing and he needs to buy a new setup now, so if you go up in the watts keep a eye on them the first week,
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Hmmm. Maybe its not a good idea then. I went out and worked on starting the scooter up. It gave me a hard time. So I put a little seafoam in the tank since its real cold outside. But it appears to be flooding. Someone said to set the idle to 1600rpm. I couldnt get it exactly at that. It would idle around 2000 bit it goes up and down for some reason. It will go all the way down to under 1000 and then back up to 2000 through 3000. And if I try to give it gas when it drops down low it dies on me. Only way to keep it from dying is to turn the idle up to 3500-4000 but then the back tire spins pretty fast. Normally is open the carbon and clean it bit since its new I doubt that will work. Any ideas? If I take it back to the dealer to have it worked on they are going to tell me its normal... Which it MAY be. But is rather an unbiased opinion from you guys.
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Normally id open the carb. Sorry typo
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35W fit in a Zuma, because it's light house is cooled from the back.
Most scooters have a housing that's inside the tupperware, meaning not enough cooling. Best alternative, get aftermarket ZUMA headlight (or similar), and install them on your scoot. If you have a 50cc, know that the stator is not very strong. Best is to change your tail light to a LED, and gap the spark plug to 0.11" or something smaller than the stock setting of 0.25"), to save power, and whatever you have left, use that for an extra headlight. I wouldn't go above 25W halogen bulbs in a scooter, and even then... There are scoots where 20W is really the max you can feed them. Especially those that you have, have a very tiny bulb compartment The problem with leds is : 1- that it disperses the light too much, less focal light, more blinding people ahead of you. and 2- that they can get very hot, and limit their lifetime, especially the 5Watt lights. LEDs don't disperse the heat very well, causing them to burn quickly if used too long. I have a 5W tail + brake light installed on my ATM50. The tail light perhaps uses 2W, and with the brakes on, it's 5W. So I never really use it constantly. But for a headlight, you'll need to use it constantly. |
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:no::shrug: Why The 150? Cant your stock 50 keep up with my stock 50? instead you need to resort to a scoot with an engine 3 times the size of mine:hmm: Even then i think "April" would leave your 150 in the dust:taunt::hehe: Take care and ride safely dear friend Yours Hank |
i have had scooters do this but its because its is a leak or not tune right. (let it warm up for 5-10min)What you want to do is put the scooter on the center stand turn your a/f screw all the way in then back out 2 1/2 turns, then adjust the a/f screw in or out but what you are looking for when adjusting is the highest idle when you find the highest idle you adjustment is correct, then adjust your idle screw down were it idles good and and the wheel isn't spinning, see what that does for you plus a nice carb cleaning would be helpful first its hard to tell what was inside that thing before you got it, if that doesnt help look for loose vac lines
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Thanks prodigit. I'm still waiting to ride it at night once the snow clears around here. And teddy. I'll get ready to go out and try turning that screw all the way in and then back out 2 and a half. But ANOTHER problem. I already went to open the carb and the screw head just started grinding like sand and ended up stripping out.... my luck.
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ok I went out and did that. no luck... the only place I can get it to idle with out dying is at 3000rpm anything less and it dies with its fluctuations. And since I can't get the carb off now i have no idea what to do next. I checked the lines and everything looks fine. no kinks or pinches or any cracks that I can see.
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not sure but have you put a new plug in yet, and it might not be a bad idea to do a valve adjustment, one of the first things i always do on new and use scoots that i buy
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@teddy ya I just put the new cr7hix plug in earlier today. I just drained the gas tank and ran it out of gas. I'm going to go get some premium fuel for it since i dont know how long that gas has been in there. also I have nooooooo idea of how to adjust valves lol. Nor do I think I have the tool for it.
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I put the new gas in. Sadly it was only 89 octane instead of 93 like I wanted. But the scooter still fluctuates but not as bad. And it doesn't die now. It goes down to 1000rpm up to 3000rpm. Can't remember if I mentioned this but it appears to be running rich. But if I turn the idle screw down anymore then it will start dying again... And while I'm at it I might as well ask, how do I know what mm carb I'm supposed to be looking at since they have I think 16mm-19mm carbs for 4stroke 50cc scooters. AND LAST BUT NOT LEAST I DO REALIZE THIS THREAD IS GETTING QUITE LONG. AND I APOLOGIZE FOR ALL THESE PROBLEMS I'M BRINGING TO THE BOARD.
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3000RPM is WAY too much!
Where do you live somewhere? In Alaska? Or perhaps your tach is set to a wrong value? Normally those 4 strokes idle anywhere between 1500 and 2000 rpm. On a really hot day in S Florida, my ATM50 was idling at ~800RPM, but it is not recommendable! I set it to ~1200RPM, and in the winter to ~1400RPM. Anything above 2k RPM should make your scoot want to go forward (on my scoot, above 2200RPM the scoot starts moving, as the clutch engages). |
no problem that is what the thread is for, but a valve job isnt that hard once you do it for the first time and it only requires a screw driver and a 8mm socket 9mm 10mm and some feeler gauges
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s0K-ytyjOFg http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=16VxRRtdfOQ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3gwoe1xPiZE |
@prodigit lol no I don't live in alaska. I live in indiana. it's about 30 degrees right now. And ya I was figuring 3000rpm was too much. On the plus side maybe is that my back tire doesn't spin or even turn at that rate. I just don't get why it has such a HIGH fluctuation. it will go up to 3000 and down to 1000 almost stalling out. @teddy I finally got the top off the carb to get access to the needle and it's all clean as a whistle. I guess my next step is to go to autozone or advance auto and get some feeler gauges. is there a specific number i should set them to? since I don't know what motor this has in it specifically.
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Fluctuating idle usually means vacuum leak... Do you know how to check for one?
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@scootwinn other than visually inspecting them no i don't know any techniques. Are there any?
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yes At least 2, some frown on my favorite method but it works... Get a can of carb cleaner and spray it while the engine is idling. When you spray it near the leak the idle will increase or stabalize. Fairly simple really the other is to use water instead and listen for the idle to drop...
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any will work that has .03-.05 range but there under ten bucks,
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K I'm getting ready to go buy the feeler gauge and can of carb cleaner. I have a question though I'm hoping someone can answer while I'm gone. on the second to the last video that teddy posted above at 3:25 he says that the process has to be reversed in order to do the exhaust valve. but the other videos don't mention that? They just say to put the BIG hole towards the front and then adjust the valves. So I'm not sure what to do on that since that video doesn't say in detail what he means by reversing the process. Does he mean put the BIG hole facing back for the exhaust adjustment? or? Thanks
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Just follow the other videos I adjust both sets at the same time with out moving the engine at all. Rotate it and check them twice befor you close it up...
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+1 the most important thing is that there is no contact of the cam lobs
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K I adjusted the valves. That didn't fix the fluctuations. I used the carb cleaner on every area that had a clamp as well as the entire hoses as well as the areas that use gaskets from front to back and it didnt act different at any time during that. Sooooo what's my next step lol.
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K I just took a video of it acting the way it does. Who wants it? p.s. it had been running for about 15 minutes before I took the video.
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post it, man that is strange. and you are sure there is no air leaks all the screw are tight around the carb air box is sealed right
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I don't see a way to post it on here. If you want me to email it to you I can. I just need an email address to send it too. If not I'll have to upload it to youtube which will take a little while for their conversion process and getting it on there. At least last time I put a vid on youtube it took about a day for it to be viewable to everyone.
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I'm uploading the video to youtube right now. I'll post the link in a few minutes when it's done uploading.
EDITED**** Sorry I forgot to answer your question, but yes everything is nice and tight. |
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well since it is so cold it could be running pretty lean and these scooter are known for come from the factory jetted to lean but i am stumped
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It's ok, I do appreciate the help. If nothing else at least I learned how to set the valves. I got it off the porch though and within about a 1000 foot stretch I was able to make it up to 35mph with my g/f riding with me. I didn't pay attention the first time but the second time with just me on it I was doing about 32mph at 6500rpm the only reason I was worried about the high idle before was because I was it was going to mess up the engine or belt. I am going to be ordering a new carb regardless along with a performance filter. I was looking at this kit on ebay. but it doesn't say what mm it is.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/50cc-GY6-Sco...-/390380812390 and I don't know what size I need etc. |
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