Today is not my day...more issues
 

Hi
as you guys know, i changed my carb for a new one and also changed my fuel line. my hard start issue stopped so the hard start was cause of the carb. i was having idle issues but i managed to fix it. so after 2 days of enjoying my scooter with the new upgrades, all of a sudden my scooter does not want to stay on, when i let go of the throttle it stops? and not only that sometimes when i start my scoot there is a really loud metal on metal grinding noise for like a second, i think its the starter, i think i want to shoot myself now, 2 problems back to back

by the way,
* i checked all the hoses for holes
* checked to see if the plug was plugged
* cant be my fuel pump cause i can see it working with my transparent fuel line,
* its not the fuel filter, carb or fuel line (all new)
* played with the mixture and idle but nothing happened

* not the cdi, just checked it

When you let go of the throttle and it dies it sounds like a vacuum issue maybe with the petcock. Cause that little guy controls the fuel.

Also a question to help me with your 2nd problem
You said that you changed the Carb. Did you have this grinding noise before you replaced the Carb?

the fuel petcock is working, my fuel line is transparent and i could see it working...yes, i had that noise before the new carb but it does it alot. Before it was once in a while

I mean the vacuum side cause when you throttle you create a difference in pressure. Make sure you have good vacuum cause that can cause problems like you are experiencing.

As for the Grinding noise problem. You said it got worse after you changed the carb out. I would start looking there. Since it happens more often since the swap. That would be the best place to start looking

really? u think its the carb even thou its new? for some reason i think its the starter or something wrong with the fuel mixture, i really dont know, im gonna throw the towel on this one and take it to my local motorcycle mechanic shop by my house, i tried being mr. mechanic but it just lasted 2 days...lol :doh:

You said it happened more once you replaced the carb. it could be a bum carb or something that you must of did hey we are all human. I made mistakes when I worked with mercedes. One time I was doing an oil change I forgot to put the drain plug back in and we will just say 8 quarts of oil ended up on the floor and I was made the butt of some jokes for a while lol. When you get the report back please share with us all

Have you checked the valve clearances? Odd running is often caused by that.

i have not, been meaning to do it

won't stay on and weird loud clanking noise when starting? here is a video of my new issue::

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FkmO...ature=youtu.be

Try spraying some starting fluid into the air intake. I would also clean (if washable foam) or replace the air filter.

Nice tats. I hope you can figure out the problem soon. It will I bet end up being something so simple

i also have a feeling it is something simple cause it was riding fine 2 days after i put on the carb, thanx for the compliment

i checked the air filter, its pretty clean

The clanking noise sounds like your starter gear disengaging and re-engaging. Try charging the battery and see if that helps. The dying is hard. I would try spraying starter fluid in the carburetor intake and see if that keeps it running. If it does you have crap in the carb.

You need to try the starting fluid. Behind the filter is a hole. Spray a little starting fluid into that and start your scooter.

Here is a youtube video on how to use starting fluid (fast forward to 3:48 in the video):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ttvImkeFiR4

Even works for a 4-stroke lawnmower engine:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUNlD7d3TTE

also check your throttle cable at the carb end. It can work loose. make sure the throttle screw hasn't backed out so that it no longer holds the carb at the run position. and don't give up. This is how we all learn...

decided to try and turn it on but its still the same, it did stay on but in a weak state for about 4 seconds but then it dies with some huffing and puffing in the end, this will be my last try, im off from work on Monday so i will be bringing it to a actual motorcycle mechanic shop, fingers crossed and hopefully they dont wont change me an arm and a leg to fix it, not only that but will have to waste money on a tow truck also :tdown: i will update this thread once i know the diagnostic from the mechanic, stay tuned.

hi guys

i tried the starter fluid but to no avail, ohh well at least i tried...here is a video for your entertainment:hmm:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdob...ature=youtu.be

Did you check your air tire pressure? Cause sometimes that throws off the 1.21 gigawatts needed to power your flux capacitor. or do like they do in Africa rub the engine with Cheetah-blood.

I hope you fix your problem soon. I will pray to baby jesus that the problem will be fixed with minor cost. Take care fellow scoot buddy

Adjust your valves! It's easy to do, and it's usually what causes problems with these scooters after they have been run for a while. Don't waste your money on a tow and mechanic until after you do the valve adjustment. (But I bet that will solve the problem.)

Update:: ok i left the scoot at the mechanic shop, they said they will check it, its a real motorcycle shop so they what they are doing, found a cheaper option than a tow truck. I rented a pick up from Uhaul, lets see what happens...stay tuned folks, in the mean time, i saw my favorite motorcycle there, i did a small video, i think im addicted to making videos, lol

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K0aD...ature=youtu.be

1) make sure throttle is adjusted correctly. you shouldn't have much play in the throttle cable. You adjust this by using the two nuts on the throttle-cable housing attached to the carb,

2) turn up the idle. The bike should idle around 2000-2200 rpms when cold started, and should drop to 1800 or so after 5 minutes. But right now you just want a fast idle so you can adjust the bike's carb. The idle screw is the screw with a spring on it right that makes contact with the throttle cable.

3) if you have not done so, seat the mixture screw and tun it counter-clockwise (left) 2 and 1/2 turns.

4) let bike run 10 minutes. After bike has remained running for ten minutes, turn mixture crew 1/4 turn to left. wait five seconds, listen for RPM increase. Repeat until rpms do not rise. turn CLOCKWISE 1/2 turn EXACTLY. This is a SLIGHTLY RICH mixture. This is where your mixture should be for optimum performance.

5) set idle using idle screw to 1800 rpms.

i did all that but now the bike does not even stay on? after i changed the carb the bike lasted only 2 days fine and now it doesnt want to stay on, when i let go of the throttle it turns off. too late now, its in the mechanic shop as we speak.

Hopefully they don't charge much to do a valve adjustment.

I had my scooter "looked at" by a mechanic for hard starting. He supposedly swapped out the carbs, put new spark plug, and check the valve clearance.

Well none of that helped so I got into it myself. I found that the enricher tip was cutoff and the air fuel screw had the oring missing. Besides the fact that it was all kinds of dirt in the carb.

Also I had an issue with the starter not spinning fast enough to turn the motor and sometimes would just spin... I had a bad engine ground.

Update:: Ok guys, are you ready to know how much i got ripped off, the total was $165.00 here comes the good part, the mechanic said it was 2 things. He said the fuel line that i replaced had too much slack and the fuel pump wont have enough power to fuel the carb. And the second part was that the mixture and the idle speed screws were off. Now the reason i had some slack was because i wanted to put my fuel line in a downward angle plus i wanted it out of the way so i can put my bucket storage thingy. I did have some trouble adjusting the idle mixture and speed screws. The mechanic made my fuel line how it was stock, which is more of a straight line so i guess making your fuel line in a downward angle for better fuel flow is a myth...well there you have it, the scoot is running fine now, Ohh and dont forget i wasted money on a Uhaul pick up to bring the scoot to the shop...smh


Lesson Learned: never re-route hoses or fuel lines :no:

Hi
Very happy you got her running but at the same time so very sorry you had to pay so much to do so
Take care and ride safely my friend
Yours Hank

Hey for $200.00 you got your screamin demon back. You learned a few things, so call it knowledge building man!! Go ride it hard now man.

Thank you for those words cheap, i needed that :scoot:

et too brute
 

I too had a failure to start, after it stranded me on the side of the road miles from home. I spent an entire day trying to get the issue resolved and nuthin I tried worked. I correctly diagnosed that there was an issue with the stator. But I took it to the dealer to have that sorted out. Just got the scooter in February and the engine has a 1 year warranty but some how they want even more than $200 to fix it. I will have them fully explain themselves before I give in.
:s:scoot:

Hi
Does your 1 year warrenty cover the electrical system as well? if so then they should honor it and fix at no cost to you if its only the engine then its on you as ther stator is eletrical systerm related not engine related
Here a copy oif what one of my scoots warrentys cover
THIS LIMITED WARRANTY COVERS THE FOLLOWING PARTS ONLY:
SYSTEM
PARTS

ENGINE
All internal lubricated parts, i.e. Pistons, piston pins, connecting rods, camshaft, timing chain, crankshaft, oil pump, water pump, valves, valve springs, valve guides, valve seats, valve lifters and valve push rods. Additionally, the engine head and cylinder will only be covered if damage is caused as a result of the mechanical failure of one or more internal lubricated components listed above.
ENGINE CASE
The Engine case itself will only be covered if the damage caused was solely as a result of the mechanical failure of one or more of the internal lubricated components listed above.

DRIVE SYSTEM
All internal lubricated parts contained within the drive axle housing case, i.e. differential, differential gears, drive shaft, drive axles, axle bearings, reverse gears and output shafts. The drive axle housing as well as the reverse gearbox housing, if damaged solely as a result of the mechanical failure of one or more or the internal lubricated components contained the drive axle housing will be covered. (Any bent, broken, or damaged by outside impact does not cover warranty)
FUEL SYSTEM
Carburetor, vacuum fuel pump, intake manifold, fuel tank.
ELECTRICAL
Stator, stator pickup, magneto, voltage regulator\ rectifier, CDI, starter relay\ starter solenoid, starter motor, distributor assembly injector relay, cable, switch and horn.
COOLING SYSTEM
Radiator, radiator cap, thermostat, thermostat housing, temperature indicator switch, cooling fan motors, water pump and water pump housing.
BRAKES
Calipers, drum housings, drum brake linkage, reservoirs, rotors, and lines.
CHASSIS
Frame, swing arms, A-arms, steering controls.
TRANSMISSION
All internal lubricated parts contained within the transmission case, i.e. flywheel, hydraulic shift linkage, kick start spindle, kick start secondary gear and transmission gears. The transmission case itself will be covered if the damage was solely as a result of mechanical failure of one or more of the internal lubricated components contained within the transmission case. (Improper changing gears without stop completed cause damage internal gears. "No cover warranty")
So check your warrenty to see what is covered and what isnt
Hope yoiu get it fixed easily and to your satisfaction
Take care4 and ride safely
Yours Hank

Discovered a zip tie was missing, mechanic charged me a ton of money and he forgets to put a zip tie on one of the hoses end...SMH

Good to hear your scooter was fixed and for having a motorcycle shop that would actually service a chinese scooter.

:thanks: