run the 5w40 in the colder months (if you are expecting sub 32 degree F temps) that 10w40 is actually for temps above 32 degrees F if you get into the temp oil charts. I run the 10w40 in those sub freezing temps because mine runs 15w40 per mfg recommendations, every engine mfg usually has a chart of acceptable oil viscosities vs temps for their engines.

It rarely ever dips below 50 down here in South Florida. So Synthetic 10W40 works just fine for me!

Mobil 0w40.

Karl

I use exclusively 10w40 Mobil full synthetic motorcycle oil. I even use it for break-in. Some fools have said you can't break an engine in on synthetic, but my engine has 8000 miles on it that say otherwise.

Just a heads-up! I don't know about scooters that much but when I ran customizing & repair shops in NH , I saw many engines that had WAY more wear than they should have had (for their age) because people ran what was basically an automotive oil in cycles. A motorcycle engine runs with way more heat than an automotive engine is used to. Saving a few $ on the amount of oil that is used isn't worth the cost of an eng. rebuild!:tdown:>: Irish:scoot::nuts:
P.S. My $ .02.

I agree with 2 wheeler.
Straight 40wt full synthetic, Royal Purple.

One advantage with full synthetic (if you see this as an advantage) is IF there are any marginal gaskets/seals on your engine, it will leak.
So like the old wive's tale... It is best to use full synthetics from new in any sort of engine. Switching from Dino oil to a synthetic will almost always begin to show leaks after the Synth has had a chance to loosen the sludge deposits that were in effect, sealing your cases.
I live in Florida so 40wt is a better choice for air cooled engines. If I was in colder climates I would switch to a 30wt in colder months.

I'm about to change the oil & filter in my ride. I have recently read up on Amsoil. It sounds fairly good. I have a 2006 Sportster 1200 with a trike kit (game leg ) They make an oil change kit for mine. It consists of the required amount of 20/50 synthetic & a chrome oil filter. I just wanted to know if anyone has had any trouble with Amsoil! Being from NE , I had never heard of it. It seems very popular (especially with the racers) here in Florida! I bought the bike used at a Harley Dealership , so I don't know what was used in it before. Any negative results would be appreciated. Thanks!:thanks::yay: Irish:scoot::nuts:
P.S. The HD Dealership took it as a trade in on a NEW bike. Naturally they won't give you any information on what was done to the bike! Whoever put the trike kit on did a good job! To the point of overkill! Having owned two Motorcycle Repair shops in NH , that's one of the 1st things that I inspected. You would not believe some of the trikes that I worked on. I didn't really want to Test Ride them.

Hi Irish,
As I just stated above, switching to a full synthetic WILL show case leaks if anything is marginal. It may take 1-2-3 hundred miles or so but they will show.

There are several manufactures of Synth. oil that have addressed this on their web sites so this is not just a matter of "my opinion".
On the plus side, if you do not show leaks or if you do, and repair them, you will know that your engine is as clean as it can be as well as being protected.

I am a firm believer in Synth. oils for the advanced wear protection they provide along with the improved mileage, and extended oil change intervals. They do pay for themselves in the long run.

Edit:
Forgot to really answer your question.
Amsoil is one of the top brands in oil. While I have never used it, I do know several people who do, and like any top brand oil... no lubrication related problems.
I think this holds true for any major brand of 4t oil

Because I've been riding (& buying parts) for so many years maybe I'm living in yesterday , when it comes to prices! I bought four qts of Amsoil (20/50) & a filter yesterday at a motorcycle repair shop & I could not believe the price! I wanted to try Amsoil but it must be liquid gold! Of course in NH I knew where to go for everything & here in Florida , it's like starting all over again. You don't know who to trust or who to do business with.:s:shrug: Irish:scoot::nuts:

This is not a recommendation! There has been an add on TV in which Mobil One has an oil that you only change once a year!:tdown: Irish:scoot::nuts:

10-30 Mobil 1 here. Seems to do alright. No leaks. 75-90 valvoline syn in the tranny.

Snake oil? Oil change once a year might not be so bad... if you don't ride very many miles during that time IMO. For a car with a filter that can actually keep tiny bits of bad stuff out of the oil flow is one thing; a little machine that maybe only has a SS screen to filter crud out (and barely effective at that!) is something completely different. From what I gather, cheap oil (as long as it meets or exceeds the bike's requirements and gets changed often enough) should be OK. What seems important is that the oil not be too contaminated or broken down to the point of not being able to provide proper lubrication.

BTW Old Man, I use 10-30 Mobil 1 and Valvoline 75-90 synthetic in the final drive gear box of my Honda Reflex 250 too.

Hey, where in Michigan are you?

I ran 20-50 amzoil in tranny and crank in my 09 1200 Sportster and it never had a problem. I started with Amzoil after 500 mile break in and ran it till I sold it with 14k.

grand Rapids

I recently changed the engine oil to 20/50 Amsoil & so far NO problems!:tup::clap: Irish:scoot::nuts:

Amsoil 10-14 metric

I use Royal Purple 10W 40 Full Synthetic in my 2008 CF Moto Fashion 250. Have never run better since the switch.

Right on man, Love the Signature.

I live in Oklahoma, which very warm, and I use Royal Purple 10w 40.

Amen to that.

Royal Purple For the Win!

asmoil 10-40 metric works great on all my Ice Bear Zodiac's 3 total 300cc water cooled with Evans water less coolant. Best of all worlds never change it runs cooler.

I see a lot of people use 10-40. The pinned PDI post on this site says to use 10-30. So I am confused. We just got scooters again after 2 years of not having any (3 years for hubby, 2 years for me). We used to use special oil for scooters that we got from our local scooter shop & were told to never use synthetic oil in scooters. Has that changed? Any help you folks could give us would be awesome. Thanks in advance!

I guess you use what company calls four in my case Ice Bear call for 10 w 40 w but then I use Amsoil metric I go over Bord a little. I pay a little more but then I do put on more miles then most do.

I haven't posted on this thread in over 3 years. Just wanted to say that my scooter crossed the 15,000 mile mark yesterday, and is still running like new, shows no signs of wearing out. My oil changes cost $1.70 or less to do. Believe you synthetic fans might be wasting your money......but then again, it's yours to do with as you please.

https://i.postimg.cc/xqbYPQQ5/IMG_20..._115106723.jpg

I tend to agree with you on that in this sense. Synthetic oil has the beef to last longer etween changes than Conventional oil. It seems a waste to me to spend the extra money if you change oil frequently. The synthetic additives aren't even breathing hard by then. Jeez, I had a Toyota that recommended oil changes every five thousand with 10W-20 with conventional oil. Synthetic is great stuff but it should be changed less than the less expensive stuff.

https://scontent.fdet1-2.fna.fbcdn.n...b9&oe=5CA632F0

I ride a 2014 (50cc) Tao Tao atm50a1
I Usually Run
Mobil-1 Full-Synthetic 10w-40 (4T) Oil.
But I'm Thinking about Switching to Castrol;
Because they JUST came out with an 5w-40 (4T) Oil
Since I do Live in Michigan and I do ride in the winter
I'm Planning on maybe running that and doing
Winter = Castrol 5w-40 (4T) Oil
Summer = Castrol 10w-40 (4T) Oil
*Has This Might Provide me MUCH easier winter starting.
LASTLY; FULL-Synthetic is the ONLY Thing I Run in "Air-Cooled" Engines!

Mobil full synthetic 10-40

Synthetic Oil
 

Only AMSOIL. There is no other viable brand compared to them. 30+ years of experience using this brand. I have it in all my collector cars too!