Quote:
Originally Posted by Firehawk989
I'd say that as long as the piston you get in your kit is designed to work with the cylinder you have, it should be all good. Buy your piston separately from your cylinder and all bets are off.
From my limited knowledge of 2-strokes, the width and height of the ports can have a large effect on how the engine runs. Different manufacturers might lay out their ports a little differently to go after more torque vs hp, or the other way around.
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Exactly..and why I brought this up. Many folks here have run into issues when replacing a piston/ring set in their cylinder. Suddenly it runs like crap. I have 7 new piston/ring sets in my parts bins. Some bought from the same vendors with same part numbers..and all 7 are different! So the chance of just buying a new 47mm piston/ring kit..installing it and having it run right..or even run at all came be a gamble. So when I rebuild a customers 2T engine I keep the old piston and match it to the new one. BUT!! you CANNOT rely on a vendors website pics..as MANY use a generic pic and not a pic of the actual product. They NEED to use real pics AND have the measurements with the pic. Such as wrist pin to to crown height...and piston over all height. Again the 'REAL' pic should also have a good view of the ports in the piston. But oddly..just as most of my posts here..I get very few replies or feedback...while a post about "What size belt does my GY6 50cc short case need" will get 20-30 replies. Maybe my findings are common knowledge and I am the only one that did not know about or notice this.. Or maybe to many.. a piston is a piston..and a big port..small port..high or low port on the piston shouldn't matter?..
I suppose if port timing is not important..we shouldn't bother lining up the cams on our 4T Scoots either?..
