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Old 06-06-2014, 09:14 AM   #1
hagedorn45   hagedorn45 is offline
 
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wires to stator and rectifier warm to hot

Wires to stator got hot and fried the plastic connectors suggestions had me replace the rectifier and cut out the plastic connectiers and splice wires to stator the wires are still getting warm to hot but can hold on to them and not burn my fingers. Is that normal for wires to rectifier and stator get hot but does not melt the wires. I believe the wires to the stator fried because I used a car to jump the battery and unfortunatley started the car and was told that might have done in the wires.



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Old 06-06-2014, 10:23 AM   #2
Madathlon   Madathlon is offline
 
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I believe you placed this in the wrong section.

But yes, starting most scooter and motor cycles from a car is a BAD idea. Chances are you burnt up the rectifier and stator and damaged most of the wires in between them. There is also a chance you damaged the CDI also.

If you need to jump your scooter again best to just remove the battery and replace it with a charged one. Or as I done dozen of times Kick start the scooter.
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Old 06-06-2014, 09:30 PM   #3
hagedorn45   hagedorn45 is offline
 
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As i indicated i replaced the rectifier and stator is putting out enough energy to charge the battery and run every thing else that it provides ac to, my problem is wires getting warm was my question Seems the cdi is working scooter starts with no problem in fact everything else works very well.



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Old 06-07-2014, 01:08 AM   #4
Bvance554   Bvance554 is offline
 
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If your scooter is a 12 volt system, and I assume it is, you will not do any harm jumping it with a 12 volt car battery. The only difference in the batteries is the amperage. Amperage doesn't burn stuff up. That is why we have voltage regulators and not amperage regulators.
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Old 06-07-2014, 07:10 AM   #5
blueboy5000   blueboy5000 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bvance554 View Post
If your scooter is a 12 volt system, and I assume it is, you will not do any harm jumping it with a 12 volt car battery. The only difference in the batteries is the amperage. Amperage doesn't burn stuff up. That is why we have voltage regulators and not amperage regulators.
No you're very wrong. Amperage is the physical pressure of DC current, amps are indeed what kill, a 200 CCA (cold cranking amperage) battery can kill a full-grown man (it usually doesn't but it can, and has). Most automobiles have batteries in excess of 300CCA, a big scooter battery has about 14CCA

A car battery should NEVER be used to jumpstart a scooter, this is indeed how you burn scooter wiring and set scooters on fire, or make batteries explode.

Our "voltage regulator" is actually called a Voltage Rectifier, it turns the AC current made by most stators into DC current used to run the bike. Few bikes use a DC current system (some do, like Kymco, and some Sym).

You really should have researched before you posted you comment, as disinformation is harmful to both the poster and reader.
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Old 06-07-2014, 07:12 AM   #6
blueboy5000   blueboy5000 is offline
 
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ampere
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2011 Roketa MC-23-150

4T 150cc 157 qmj

24mm carb w 115 main jet and paper cone air filter

Manual petcock w Tygon fuel lines

Scrappy Dog Scooters Retro-slash stainless straight-thru exhaust

RED spring clutch

Adjustable CDI (brand unknown, it's blue and red and works great!)

KOSO high performance variator w 12g sliders

Gates Powerlink 835-20-30 belt

GPS verified 65mph on flats.
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Old 06-07-2014, 07:20 AM   #7
blueboy5000   blueboy5000 is offline
 
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http://www.physics.ohio-state.edu/~p...l_current.html
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2011 Roketa MC-23-150

4T 150cc 157 qmj

24mm carb w 115 main jet and paper cone air filter

Manual petcock w Tygon fuel lines

Scrappy Dog Scooters Retro-slash stainless straight-thru exhaust

RED spring clutch

Adjustable CDI (brand unknown, it's blue and red and works great!)

KOSO high performance variator w 12g sliders

Gates Powerlink 835-20-30 belt

GPS verified 65mph on flats.
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Old 06-07-2014, 10:47 AM   #8
Madathlon   Madathlon is offline
 
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As for your wiring, if it is soft and flexible its good, but if it had harden then its been cooked and should be replaced. As copper hardens (In wiring) it also raises its resistance and creates heat. Sooner or later it will catch on fire or leave you stranded.

You should be able to find a complete wiring harness for your scooter or a generic one for your motor type.
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Old 06-08-2014, 01:48 AM   #9
Bvance554   Bvance554 is offline
 
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Blueboy.. I know the difference between amps and volts thanks. . Did you even read your links before you posted them? Look at the 'Everyday Examples' on your awesome wikipedia link. Make any sense to you? Probably not. LOTS of various devices run off of a similar voltage but what they CONSUME is the amperage.

What is the voltage of the wiring in your home? Its constant isn't it? It doesn't vary. Your various appliances that actually use the voltage vary in how many amps they use. How does the 120 volt current that runs my 1000 watt microwave not kill the .5 watt LED night light. Maybe it is you who needs to do some actual research.

We weren't talking about killing a man. We were talking about jumping a scooter from a car battery of the same voltage. Which you can do.
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Old 06-09-2014, 08:13 AM   #10
blueboy5000   blueboy5000 is offline
 
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I'm not sure you have any idea whatsoever the difference between amps and volts. In fact, I can straight up prove you do not.

Don't jumpstart a scooter with a car, despite what Bvance554 says, this is #1 way to start a scooter on fire, regardless of his PERSONAL BELIEF that it isn't. I have seen enough burned wiring harnesses and stators to disprove his false statement.
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2011 Roketa MC-23-150

4T 150cc 157 qmj

24mm carb w 115 main jet and paper cone air filter

Manual petcock w Tygon fuel lines

Scrappy Dog Scooters Retro-slash stainless straight-thru exhaust

RED spring clutch

Adjustable CDI (brand unknown, it's blue and red and works great!)

KOSO high performance variator w 12g sliders

Gates Powerlink 835-20-30 belt

GPS verified 65mph on flats.
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Old 06-09-2014, 08:32 AM   #11
Bvance554   Bvance554 is offline
 
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It isn't my personal belief Blueboy, it is electrical theory. Please prove it to me that I am wrong. I understand it is probably a little embarrassing to call me out and then start a thread about making stuff up. Why don't you go back to that thread and tell bnc he is wrong too.
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Old 06-09-2014, 02:19 PM   #12
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Once it gets personal, that's it. Please take it outside....
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Old 06-09-2014, 04:00 PM   #13
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I'm going to leave this open for debate, because it can be beneficial if done in a proper manner.

Healthy debate is fine. There can be disagreements, but do NOT resort to personal attacks. State your case and opinion professionally, without degrading others. If I see that starting to happen, the thread will be closed and warnings, if applicable, will be given.
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Old 06-09-2014, 04:28 PM   #14
bnc   bnc is offline
 
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What is true is that if you start the car, then all that has been said can happen.

In simple terms, the electrical systems in cars and bikes are different. Turning on the car starts a war between the two regulation systems and the car is going to win.

Here is why. The alternator in a car uses an electromagnet instead of a permanent magnet. Because of this, the regulator in the car can control the strength of the magnetic field in the alternator by adjusting the current to the field coil. Lowering the current to the alternator field coil reduces the magnetic field so the alternator output drops.

Because the bike has a permanent magnet in the alternator, the car technique cannot be used. Instead the regulator uses a device called a Triac ( same device used in light dimmers ) to short the output of the alternator to ground until the average voltage is what the regulator wants. Obviously, this causes the stator and alternator wires to get hot and the regulator gets hot too. This is why bike regulators have big heatsinks. Under normal circumstances, the shorting is within design parameters so nothing blows up.

The problem is created when the car is connected up and it is turned on so its regulator starts to work. If there is a slight difference in regulated voltage between the two, for example, the bike regulator wants to regulate to +13 volts and the car regulator wants to regulate to +13.5 volts; the voltage regulator on the bike will think the bike's alternator is putting out too much voltage so it will do everything it can to lower the +13.5 volts the car regulator is supplying. It does this by shorting out the bikes alternator completely which can burn up the stator wires and itself because the car alternator can supply more power to maintain +13.5 volts than the bike regulator can absorb trying to lower it to +13 volts.

Cars can be safely connected together with both running even if they have slightly different regulator set points. The car with the +13 volt regulator set point will see the +13.5 volts from the other car and think its own alternator is producing too much voltage so it will reduce the current to the electromagnet of its own alternator leaving the other car's alternator in control. This harms neither car.

I would also like to dispel one other confusion. This regards battery voltage and battery capacity ( CCA ). There is a direct analogy between volts and water pressure and current and water flow in gallons/minute.

Let's look at this example. Suppose you have an outside faucet capable of 12 psi ( analogous to 12 volts ) and 14 gallons/minute ( analogous to 14 CCA ) and a fire hydrant with the same 12 psi pressure and capable of 200 gallons/minute. If you connect an ordinary garden hose ( analogous to a bike ) to the outside faucet and after one minute measure six gallons flowed into a bucket then the hose is only capable of taking 6 gallons/minute from the 14 gallon/minute faucet. If you hook this same hose to the fire hydrant, it will still only deliver 6 gallons/minute.
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Old 06-09-2014, 11:19 PM   #15
Bvance554   Bvance554 is offline
 
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I offer my apologies to blueboy for any and all personal statements I have made. I think we have found our resource for any future electrical related issues. ^^
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