Custom build 150 UM Matrix

[DisillusionedPrepper]

Hey all,
I'll start posting Picts. tomorrow evening but I found these on line so that you all would know what I am starting with.

Hmmm. I tried to add a youtube vid but I haven't figured that one out yet so here is the link.

That's not my vid but it is the same bike.

Anyway, to date I have remove the body, cut off all the mounting tabs, cut up, and drilled out my CVT cover, as well as laying out the plan of attack for stretching/lowering the bike.
I don't want my progress to get ahead of the thread so I haven't really looked at it that hard. I'll post up pictures of the progress tomorrow so we all begin at the same point.
Plus I'll begin discussing my thoughts on direction. That is something that is always changing.

Edit: I figured out the Video! lol

[DisillusionedPrepper]

Well, I forgot my camera but I'll just update, and follow up w/ Picts. later.

Lowered the front, and rear by 2 1/2 inches, and stretched it by 3 inches. All the body mounting tabs along with the center stand are cut off, and ground.

The front fork lowering was easy enough. I simply removed the pinch bolts, slid the forks up 2 1/2", and ran the appropriate drill bit thru to re-cut the fork tubes. Reinstall the bolts, and tighten up.

The rear engine mount was just as easy to modify but I'm sure the Picts. will explain it better.
There are a pair of rectangular blocks that the top engine mount attach to on the frame. It was easy enough to spy out a spot on the blocks that was 3" further back, and 2 1/2" uo. Measure 3 times, drill the new holes, and slide the mount up into it's new home.

With all this lowering the center stand was useless. In fact worse... It was scraping the ground so it had to go. The side stand got a 2" trim as well.
The rear shocks would not lay down correctly in their original mounts so I found a pair of mounts that used to carry a cross-member that runs under the fuel tank. There is also a welded tube that stiffens the rear so that cross member is only used to support the front of the fuel tank, and mount a 1/2 fender over the rear tire.
I'm using a different fuel tank, and not using the fender so I simply re-tapped the threads in the mounting points, and ran a pair of cap screws/washers for the rear shocks.
They are in a perfect position away from everything.

Next is the Darkside tire deal.
I received my first tire last week. It is an Achilles 135/80 R13. That size is too tall to fit past the right side crankcase bungs that the swing arm mounts to. A lower profile is needed so I got on the phone.
There is a shop in Cali (Bear Tire) that is willing to TRY to get me a Euro market tire. The size is 135/70 R13. There is a Fiat sold in the UK that takes this size.
I tried calling Federal tire, Dunlop, Firestone, and someone else (i forget which one). NONE of these manufactures are willing to sell me a Euro market tire. They all said the same thing... "It's not a DOT approved tire for U.S. markets so they can not sell it here."
Michael (from Bear Tire) is willing to try to get me a pair, and see if he can get e steady supply just for these custom scooters. He's familiar with the Ruk fat tire scene in Cali. so he will do his best to help us Darkside riders out in the 150cc bikes. Fingers crossed.

The 135/80 R13 is not a total loss tho. I'm considering running it up front. Back in the 80's i ran a custom frame Harley 1/4 mile bike as my daily, and today I ride an 85 mph ZX-50 as my daily. I'm used to things that don't belong on the street.
This build should be no exception.

Alright, I'll post up the picts so you all can see how simple this all was.

Later!

[bandito2]

Originally Posted by DisillusionedPrepper

Lowered the front, and rear by 2 1/2 inches, and stretched it by 3 inches. All the body mounting tabs along with the center stand are cut off, and ground.

The front fork lowering was easy enough. I simply removed the pinch bolts, slid the forks up 2 1/2", and ran the appropriate drill bit thru to re-cut the fork tubes. Reinstall the bolts, and tighten up.

Next is the Darkside tire deal.
I received my first tire last week. It is an Achilles 135/80 R13. That size is too tall to fit past the right side crankcase bungs that the swing arm mounts to. A lower profile is needed so I got on the phone.
There is a shop in Cali (Bear Tire) that is willing to TRY to get me a Euro market tire. The size is 135/70 R13. There is a Fiat sold in the UK that takes this size.
I tried calling Federal tire, Dunlop, Firestone, and someone else (i forget which one). NONE of these manufactures are willing to sell me a Euro market tire. They all said the same thing... "It's not a DOT approved tire for U.S. markets so they can not sell it here."
Michael (from Bear Tire) is willing to try to get me a pair, and see if he can get e steady supply just for these custom scooters. He's familiar with the Ruk fat tire scene in Cali. so he will do his best to help us Darkside riders out in the 150cc bikes. Fingers crossed.

The 135/80 R13 is not a total loss tho. I'm considering running it up front. Back in the 80's i ran a custom frame Harley 1/4 mile bike as my daily, and today I ride an 85 mph ZX-50 as my daily. I'm used to things that don't belong on the street.
This build should be no exception.

Just wonder if the front will bottom out when hitting bumps and what the consequences of
that may be should that ever happen.

Darkside on scooters is something near and dear to me, but again, having put a scooter
rear tire on the front (called double darksiding) of one of my Honda Reflex250cc scooters
makes me wonder about the wisdom (or lack thereof) of putting a car tire on the front of
a scooter. That is because of the width of the rear scooter tire on front and the sometimes
excessive heaviness and peculiarity of steering that it induces. Pulling a single wheel
trailer with the rear tire up front was fine but less so when riding without the trailer. Why
that is, I couldn't tell you with certainty, but that is something that I noticed on mine. I
could go on about what I think makes it that way but it would be better reserved for
discussion elsewhere/later.

Building your own bodywork in composites is an area where I lack technical skills, but I
have dabbled in it with surprisingly good results. An interesting area of scooter
wrenching tomfoolery for me is streamlining and fuel economy; even with scooters as
efficient as they are without any modification. Not much into engine modification with the
Honda scooters and the Reflex in particular as there isn't much in the way of
performance enhancement for that bike and it works pretty good as is. It seems most
engine mods for it tend to cause more trouble than it is worth. BB kits that have a poor
history and up jetting only uses more fuel... which would defeat my aims.

Real streamlining is the best avenue for performance enhancement on my bike. Wind
drag is the big thing that holds it back. The usual average mpg for the Reflex is mid 60's.
On my 2007 Reflex I managed to get 77 mpg on a 200 mile test ride with standard body
work. The mods that were in effect for that ride were a 155/80R12 car tire on the rear
and a taller final drive gears set from Polini that the BB kit racers used to get higher
speed. (with the BB kit there was more available HP) What I was looking for (and got)
was lower rpms at cruise. But I couldn't get it to go any faster than it would go when set
up stock. The wind held me back.

Craig Vetter, inventor of the Windjammer fairing (and others... popular starting back in
the 70's I think) for motorcycles, built a streamline fairing for a Honda Helix 244cc
scooter along with taller final gears, got WAY higher top speed for that scoot, but was
pretty spooky to ride going 80 mph or so on the little 10" wheels it has. Anyway, here's a
link to that stuff.
http://craigvetter.com/pages/470MPG/...20Fairing.html

I like the way you think... you are a kindred spirit.
I'll watch your build with interest.

[DisillusionedPrepper]

Ok
I finished the build. It's awesome, and it's the only 207 MPH 150cc scooter in the world.
Sorry I don't have pictures or any sort of proof but you have to trust me.
I installed an Allison 671 blower, a 400HP Nitros kit,, and something called a Dodge Hyper Turbo.

The bike is so fast that it diapered! I tried to adjust rollers but the bike was gone before I could roll to a stop.
AMAZING!!!
I know!!
Well, I can only say that as I find the pieces, I will keep posting.
I'm not F/n around
Just drinkin' homemade shine, puttin' homemade parts together,and hoping that some folks will see how REALLY easy it is to make custom stuff.

Actually I still have the bike. It didn't disintegrate into soooooo fast space,
BUT I did make a change in plans... go figure.
I'm thinking a custom body!

My last custom was a frame job (naked)
So i'm thinking a Philippine type body.
Told ya! The ideas will change.

Yeah, no pictures YET. They will come. Or am I a Troll???
NOT Love ya!, I'll post it up!
.Respect for ScootDawG

[DisillusionedPrepper]

I have to say one thing...
If you view POST! Join the Forum!!!

Dude! It's here for all of us!

[wheelbender6]

"Or am I a Troll???"
Of course not, 'Prepper. You are prolific poster and you are here to share and learn.
Trolls don't care about learning.
What's a Philippine body?
Makes me think of a Jeepney or something carved wood out of wood.

[DisillusionedPrepper]

I'm thinking of a fat, wide , low body style...
Basically keeping the factory shape but cutting, chopping, and re arranging where the pieces go.

I build boats for a living so fiberglass fabrication is my bread, and butter.

Last night I started looking up the head, and tail lamp lenses. Holy crap! The headlight assembly is over $150.00, and the tail lamp lenses are no longer available.
Hmmmmm. Gonna take some creative searching!

[DisillusionedPrepper]

Here's two picts as it sits now.
Like I said the bike is lowered, and lengthened. I'm playing around with body pieces to find new positions, and shapes for them.

I'll tear it apart after I find where the body will sit, and show detailed picts. of the mechanical work I posted above.
Just updating what I'm working with... Quick edit, The bike behind it is a Verucci 50cc, and you can see that the UM 150 is a few inches lower than that one

[DisillusionedPrepper]

Here's one of the CVT cover. I cut the two ovals into it with a common jig saw, and drilled a kajillion holes around the perimeter.
No measuring anything, just cut away.

I am eliminating the kick start so I may do another cut out where that hole is or maybe make a cap/lens for an LED skull or something... Not quite sure yet.

That was a standard United Motors cheap chrome CVT cover so the chrome was to far gone to restore. It's primed, and ready for whatever paint I choose later on.

[DisillusionedPrepper]

Pretty busy with daily life so not much in progress.

I have several scooters, and loads of bodies (scooter bodies) laying about so I started trial fitting some of these bits.
This nose section is from something that I forget who made but it is a pretty close fit.
I also have the joining section that fits just below this. Soooo I'm kind of staring at it in the shop to decide which direction to pursue.

I'll re-post one of the earlier picts, and the new (orange body).
If anyone has an opinion on which one may lead to a cooler looking bike, than please chime in.
Keep in mind that all these bits will not be duct taped, and glued to the bike. I'm a fiberglass fabricator for a living. These parts are nothing more than a short cut to a desired outcome, and will be blended together (at some point in time).
Thanks!

[DisillusionedPrepper]

Thanks for the input Bandito. That's the sole reason I post on forums... to gain perspective, and new ways of looking at a single issue.

The darkside front is up in the air at the moment. My hope of finding a supplier in the US is dwindling. The Cali distributer I was in contact with has found the same stone wall at the manufacturer end of the supply chain. They WILL NOT release a UK spec'ed tire in the US at all.

What I do have is a 130/90-10 Kenda dual sport that is the same (19") installed height as the OEM 130/70 13 tire on the bike now.
I have a 10" rim for that tire/GY6 case, and I have a rather cool looking 12" front wheel from some unknown scoot that has a low profile tire (unknown size ATM) that will be about another inch or so lower in the front.
I'll have to mount them all up, and trial fit them on the bike to see how it all looks.

In any event they will be temporary as I really do have my mind set on the darkside rear. The front I may stay with the 12" wheel, and a low profile...

The distance I lowered the front (raised the shocks in the trees) is really a non issue as far as bottoming out.
You can (I can) clearly see where the real world travel ended on the fork tubes. I went 1/4" above that point. Fact is I will be installing new forks after this mock up. At that time I will be modifying the new ones with spring preload-ers, and heavier weight fork oil. The idea is to stiffen, and slow the dampening. The real concern is hitting the frame or kickstand more than collapsing the fork. Stiffer springs, and slower reaction time will cure that.
For the rear it will be nitrogen shocks that I can adjust the charge/spring preload to compensate for my 200 lb self...

The BBK's, and associated tuning gear is my realm. That's where I really shine.
They don't really increase HP to any degree. What they add is torque. Torque is what pushes you against that wind to increase speed. The main issue with all of those kits, and associated bits is the blueprinting or lack thereof. Mass produced parts can be assembled from different (or the same vendor), and fit like an F1 engine or a can of BB's.
I generally have at least three pistons, five or six sets of rings, and several (2-3) cylinder/head kits on hand. I'll go thru them all to find the best fitting parts, and fine tune them all from there. Things like polishing combustion chambers/piston domes to laping the valves. Compare all the valve springs (on a drill press/digital scale) to find matching pairs. Weigh the valve retainers/rocker arms to match them up. Relieve all the sharp edges left after machining to prevent hot spots or places where stress can create fractures...
I can assemble one of these china engines in around an hour. BUT I can't say that it will run for an hour. Maybe a year or maybe 5 minutes.
If I take a day or two to blueprint that same engine I can guarantee it will run strong for a year with little to no maintenance. Sooo what I try to do is build a solid engine, and never really care what It goes in.

This build will be a little different for me because this will be one of my last scoot builds for quite awhile. I plan to commit to my Triumph build after this scoot. I'm getting a little too old for all this custom scoot stuff. You can put several thousand dollars into a scoot, and then have no market for it. Who would really pay 5k plus for a 90MPH 50cc bike? Who on earth could ever keep a bike like that running??
Well there is me but I'm the only one I know...

On the flip side I could build a one of Triumph bobber for around 12-15k, and easily turn it around for 25-30 with a few shows under it's belt.

Just saying that scoots are a TON of fun, and a great pass-time but the limited use nature, and lousy reputation they have in the US market is catching up with the positives.
Here's the last real scoot project I built. 5k, and I can't count the hours... It started as a 2005 Kymco ZX50, and became a real 85-90MPH race bike. The only parts that I did not modify are the wheels. Not one other piece was spared the sword.