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10-28-2014, 05:28 PM | #1 |
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: NC
Posts: 15
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My scooter has a slipping transmission feel to it
Hi,
Got some good advice at another forum but figured I'd throw this question out there while over here reading stuff. Anyways, I have a Zuma 50f with over 10,500 miles on it--have never had any serious issues that a fluid, plug, or belt change couldn't fix. But in the last few weeks its had what could be described as a slipping transmission feel to it. For example, when I accelerate from a dead stop, it sorta revs slightly higher than normal as if something in the cvt isn't catching and then it feels like it kicks into gear, can hear the revving go back to normal, and it cruises like its supposed to. I was advised that this could be the rollers needing to be changed, among other things, which I'm gonna do myself tomorrow. Everything's stock, all fluids are good, and it has a new belt that I put on it just a few weeks ago. Your thoughts? Thanks |
10-28-2014, 09:46 PM | #2 |
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Hyde Park, NY
Posts: 1,082
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What shape are the shoes in the clutch in? A CVT is pretty simple. You might even only have to sand the glaze out of the clutch bell housing. I would look there first if the belt is new. When you changed the belt did you sand the glaze off the variator?
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2008 Eagle Milano 150- 9,679 miles 2009 Honda Rebel 250- 10,434 miles 2009 CF Moto Fashion- 16,023 miles 2009 MC-114 50cc Cub Clone- 4,317 miles twowheeler.yolasite.com/ That's 30,049 China Scootin miles and Counting. |
10-28-2014, 10:42 PM | #3 | |
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: NC
Posts: 15
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Quote:
I've never done it but am gonna look into it. With 10,000 plus miles do you think i should go ahead and get new shoes for the clutch? Thanks |
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10-29-2014, 03:06 AM | #4 |
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Hyde Park, NY
Posts: 1,082
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That wouldn't be the worst idea but the old ones might just be glazed too. Japanese scooters should last a long time and neither of my Chinese scooters with 10,000 and 8,500 are slipping. You would think a Yamaha would be immune to problems. I assume the belt is the right size so the answer is probably something simple like the variator or clutch bell need a light sanding. Try that first before new clutch arms.
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2008 Eagle Milano 150- 9,679 miles 2009 Honda Rebel 250- 10,434 miles 2009 CF Moto Fashion- 16,023 miles 2009 MC-114 50cc Cub Clone- 4,317 miles twowheeler.yolasite.com/ That's 30,049 China Scootin miles and Counting. |
10-29-2014, 04:30 PM | #5 |
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: NC
Posts: 15
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Yeah, it turned out to be glazed clutch pads. I opened up the cvt cover and the inside was thick with grime and the clutch shoes were a dark color and smooth. I lightly sanded the crud off the shoes and cleaned everything up and now its good to go--rollers do need changing though, noticed flat spots.
On another note, do you know of a good way to tighten it all back together without an impact wrench? I tried using a filter wrench (the kind that has a rubber strap) to hold the clutch and variator as I tightened them to no avail--so I ended having to use the impact wrench and am scared I'm gonna end up stripping it one day...I've got to go right back in there when I get the new rollers. On another note, while on the subject of rollers, have you ever switched to heavier rollers in order to increase power? |
10-30-2014, 08:20 AM | #6 |
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 493
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I use an impact wrench to tighten the clutch and variator nuts. I also put RED LOCTITE on the NUTS.
If your clutch pads were glazed up, (which, is NORMAL for 10k+ miles) you should inspect the condition of the variator and clutch bell for glazing and grooving. Honestly though, with ANY cvt problem on a cvt with over 10k on it, it makes the most preemptive sense to replace the entire CVT including belt, as it is not expensive, and most after-market 1e40 CVT kits are very durable. I just installed a new CVT on my E-Ton Beemer, and it made one heck of difference, it can almost hang with the 150's now, and hits 52mph gps verified on flats on the stock carb and cylinder.
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2011 Roketa MC-23-150 4T 150cc 157 qmj 24mm carb w 115 main jet and paper cone air filter Manual petcock w Tygon fuel lines Scrappy Dog Scooters Retro-slash stainless straight-thru exhaust RED spring clutch Adjustable CDI (brand unknown, it's blue and red and works great!) KOSO high performance variator w 12g sliders Gates Powerlink 835-20-30 belt GPS verified 65mph on flats. |
10-30-2014, 08:23 AM | #7 |
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 493
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"On another note, while on the subject of rollers, have you ever switched to heavier rollers in order to increase power? "
No, as heavier rollers make for MUCH slower take off and much less low-end power. I run 5.5 gram FLAT-SLIDER WEIGHTS on a KOSO variator, w performance RED SPRING clutch from SCRAPPYDOGSCOOTERS. Along with a kevlar belt, and I can burn the rear tire.
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2011 Roketa MC-23-150 4T 150cc 157 qmj 24mm carb w 115 main jet and paper cone air filter Manual petcock w Tygon fuel lines Scrappy Dog Scooters Retro-slash stainless straight-thru exhaust RED spring clutch Adjustable CDI (brand unknown, it's blue and red and works great!) KOSO high performance variator w 12g sliders Gates Powerlink 835-20-30 belt GPS verified 65mph on flats. |
10-30-2014, 09:13 AM | #8 |
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: murphy n.c
Posts: 467
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my threads are pretty much stripped from my impact so i rethreaded the crank (lucky to have some good left)and the kick starter gear i hold it with vise grips and tighten with a rachet and use 242 locktite.i only have 1400 miles so i have to be careful.luckily i already put a performance variator.changed rollers and have performance clutch so im good for awhile
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10-30-2014, 06:45 PM | #9 | |
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: NC
Posts: 15
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Quote:
/\/\/\ What I'm trying to avoid. I seen a "universal variator tool" online for like 35 bucks that I'm thinking about giving a try. http://www.drowsports.com/buzzetti-u...variator-tool/ Has anyone here ever used one or seen one used? Or I might just try to make my own--I ran across a home-made variator tool in a another forum last night. Either way, no way am I gonna tighten back up with the impact, cant risk it. |
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10-30-2014, 07:25 PM | #10 |
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Hyde Park, NY
Posts: 1,082
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I made one years ago from a thread on Scootdawg. It worked on my 150cc and when I put the clutch back on my 250. It works great.
__________________
2008 Eagle Milano 150- 9,679 miles 2009 Honda Rebel 250- 10,434 miles 2009 CF Moto Fashion- 16,023 miles 2009 MC-114 50cc Cub Clone- 4,317 miles twowheeler.yolasite.com/ That's 30,049 China Scootin miles and Counting. |
10-30-2014, 10:47 AM | #11 |
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Western New York
Posts: 454
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I use an impact wrench...but, before I removed the variator or the clutch the first time, I marked the postion of the nuts on the shafts, with a very small 3 corner file groove, and a dab of nail polish. Now when I reinstall nuts, I just tighten until marks line up....
Wouldn't suggest red thread locker, seems as if the blue would be more than enough for these parts.....although I've had good luck using nothing at all |
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