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01-24-2013, 03:54 PM | #1 |
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Lower Cape Cod
Posts: 64
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Exhaust bolt help
I've had an unfortunate situation happen with my exhaust. I went out to start my scoot on a VERY cold day only to have BOTH exhaust bolts fall off into the grass to be lost for good, I just need to know the size and thread so I can buy new ones down at the store. Needless to say it's not good to run without an exhaust for obvious reasons (aside from the noise, which actually is pretty cool) like burning out a valve or "piston slap". The only reason I started the bike was to keep a charge on the battery during some extremely cold weather this week. I'm thinking I'll fetch a battery tender next time
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Genuine Buddy 50CC 2T All stock. ASS, GAS OR GRASS...NOBODY RIDES FOR FREE!!! |
01-24-2013, 04:45 PM | #2 | |
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Socal
Posts: 31
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Quote:
But, I think your talking about the nuts right? If this is what your talking about i suggest using two nuts on each bolt that you can get from any hardware store. Mine have not come off since I started doing this.
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2010 Honda 110 2011 SSR Verona 150 1978 Motobecane 49cc |
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01-24-2013, 05:20 PM | #3 |
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Tierra Azul, NM
Posts: 739
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Those were the first parts I lost, I miss them. I don't remember the size but I do remember I pulled a similar sized bolt from somewhere (front wheel assembly can't remember what though) and it was the same. I took that bolt to the hardware store and grabbed the nuts (metal ones, they sell, off the shelf, don't start...) I think I left spending less than a dollar Hope that helps
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Do not fear mistakes. You will know failure. Continue to reach out. - Benjamin Franklin Join the HARDCORE 1983 Honda GL650I SilverWing |
01-24-2013, 09:03 PM | #4 |
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 1
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They are either an m6, m7 or m8 with m6 and m8 being the most common. Check your local hardware or parts store and get some metal locking ones to replace the long acorn style that were originally there. The metal locking ones are like the nylon insert nuts but they are designed for high temp locations. After losing 2 sets of the acorn nuts I switched to these and haven't had a problem since.
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01-24-2013, 10:27 PM | #5 |
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 24
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If you are talking about where the exhaust flange connects to the head then those are not bolts but studs which are attached to the head first so the aluminum threads in the head will not get worn and stripped out from being spun while having the load of tightening the exhaust flange applied. You need a new set of exhaust studs, washers and nuts to repair this. If you are fortunate they were not in tight enough and spun out when the extremely cold engine was first started however they may have also been installed too tight and when the engine heated up poped out due to thermal expansion stripping the threads from the head. You may need to drill and tap them out to the next larger size if that was the case.
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01-24-2013, 10:38 PM | #6 |
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: North Myrtle Beach, SC
Posts: 1
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Not sure of size, but this is how I matched it - take the nut holding your under seat bucket. Same size nut
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01-24-2013, 10:47 PM | #7 |
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Tierra Azul, NM
Posts: 739
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I assumed he meant just the nuts yes rocky is right they are studs...
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Do not fear mistakes. You will know failure. Continue to reach out. - Benjamin Franklin Join the HARDCORE 1983 Honda GL650I SilverWing |
01-24-2013, 10:59 PM | #8 |
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 24
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Seen a number of folks ruin salvagable heads using bolts instead so played it safe and spelled it out. It's all part of the learning process. If I think back to almost 50 years ago when I first started wrenching there are more that a few things that I would not repeat and will probably deny ever happened. Things that garnered an "Oops! Did I do that?"
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01-24-2013, 11:55 PM | #10 |
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Wichita,Ks
Posts: 3
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not sure what bolt exactly you are referring to mine has a few different bolts. I just replaced one on my Genuine Roughhouse it was a M8 1.25. Probably not all the same size but that's at least a starting point.
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2012 Genuine Roughhouse 50 |
01-25-2013, 10:51 AM | #11 |
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Lower Cape Cod
Posts: 64
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Thanks guys, I did just mean the nuts, not the studs. That would require a "Grab-it" tool and a good variable speed drill to pull out. I just had what sounds like a normal experience losing parts
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Genuine Buddy 50CC 2T All stock. ASS, GAS OR GRASS...NOBODY RIDES FOR FREE!!! |
01-25-2013, 10:54 AM | #12 |
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Lower Cape Cod
Posts: 64
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Seeing as it's so damned cold here now (we usually don't get this cold) I'll wait until mid-week to go get the parts and put them on
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Genuine Buddy 50CC 2T All stock. ASS, GAS OR GRASS...NOBODY RIDES FOR FREE!!! |
01-26-2013, 04:25 PM | #13 |
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Lower Cape Cod
Posts: 64
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UPDATE: Problem solved! It got warm enough to brave driving the scoot to the hardware store so I did. For those of you who have questions about size and thread here it is: 6mm, 1.00 pitch thread. I used the double up method as someone else suggested. You'll need either a 10mm nut driver or deep well socket to tighten them down. Now my scooter is nice and quiet.
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Genuine Buddy 50CC 2T All stock. ASS, GAS OR GRASS...NOBODY RIDES FOR FREE!!! |
01-26-2013, 05:01 PM | #15 |
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: South Haven Michigan
Posts: 225
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Soo..basically...you literally "Froze your nuts off".. All kidding aside..they should be M8X1...some are M8X1.5 Instead of using plain nuts...I use metric size threaded rod couplers...they are longer and give more thread area for the stud to grip onto..meaning less chance of stripping the nut. Also since they are 2-3 times longer than a nut...they are easier to put on due to the cramped quarters under the engine....and keep water and road residue off the threads so they do not corrode. Just my 2 cents....
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