My MC-13-250 has problems

[ykdavid]

Hey guys I told you guys some of you may remember I said I was getting a 250 that would shut off if the RPM's dropped below 2K. <-- well that deal went a way so I didn't get that scoot, but I still wanted one so I checked around and found an 07 Roketa BALI 250. It was kinda far off but I figured "what the hell" it runs so I could drive it home. <--DUMB anyways I get there the guy showed me the scoot every thing looked good it started up I test drove it down the street everything was fine. It was low priced at $700 I figured I'm getting a pretty good deal. So I buy it and start my ride home.

I went to the gas station down the street to fill up (premium gas)
I saw no problems.

next I got on the highway and got the scoot up to about 65mph and hung there. a little later I wanted to see how fast it would go so I got up to around 71-73ish.

A little after that the scoot died, it shut off while doing about 60mph and I coasted to a stop.

I sat for a second on the side of the road and thought maybe I flooded it or something.

I wanted to start it again so I held the break and hit the start button and it started after a try or two. when i pulled away "I noticed a lot of smoke coming form the muffler" I thought to myself that "if it continued I'd stop" but shortly after it stopped. So I rode on.

The scoot had me worried that I'd be stuck on side of the road. No one I knew had a truck to pick it up if it wouldn't run so I pressed on.

Next I started losing power "It didn't shut off like before" but it was slowly dying. After it dropped below 35mph I decided to kill it and pull over. I then decided to call the guy I bought it form less than an hour ago. I told everything you see above ^ . He said he would haul it home for me but could not take it back because he didn't know what I had did to it.

Once I got it home I started the scoot and drove up my driveway everything seemed fine it was pretty late at this point so I parked it and went to bed. The next morning I decided to take it around my neighborhood to see what was wrong with it. It started up and looked good but once I got up to 40mph the temperature was pegged but the power was back. So I thought to check the coolant the reservoir was full but when I looked under the seat I found a hole in the plastic filler. Upon further inspection I found rigging that left the radiator with no power source. The fan and fuel pump worked but I found nothing that would lead me to believe the radiator would work (it has a plug with nothing connection to it) I also found that the fuel pump was (wrong)aftermarket and was "resting" on the scoots underpinning.

What do you guys think?

[ykdavid]

[cheapeto]

Man it's an 07 when scoots coming from China were very hit or miss. It's obvious the guy had problems with it,right out of the gate, low miles older scoot.

I would tear her apart, and retrace all my wires, double check/or replace all hoses, replace the filters, clean the carb, reset the valves, hell myself, I'd clean out the gas tank to.
Put in fresh oil and final gear oil, check your belt and clutch area, maybe blow out all the dust in the clutch.

Man, I really hope you did not get a lemon, but that time frame, and before, was very hard on china scoot buyers. I got one myself, but a 2008 150 retro.

Good luck, I'm sure some of the smarter scooter mechanics will give you much better advice then mine, but thats where I would start at.

[spandi]

And you might (in addition to a new temperature sensor) swap out the CDI unit and pop in a Mikuni fuel pump.

[ykdavid]

can anyone tell me what this is

and why it's making a "clicking noise" when i try to start my scoot?

[bandito2]

I believe that is the starter solenoid. It would make a clicking noise because it is an electro-mechanical switch. A little magnet sort of thing flips on a contact switch in the solenoid when you push the start button. Power to the magnetic switch comes through the key switch, then then the start button; then power to the starter comes from the battery through the solenoid switch.

The reason it is set up this way is because there would be too big of a draw of electricity trying to go through the key switch/start button wires to the starter. The wiring in your key switch/start button would not last long trying to put all that amperage through and would soon cook the switches and/or wires. Notice how heavy the wires are on the solenoid? There is a lot of juice that runs through there and if you trace the heavy red wire, it should go from the battery then through the solenoid and on to the starter. Should be a smaller red wire that goes to the solenoid as well; that is the positive wire from the key switch/starter button. Normally, the ground connection for the solenoid is on the casing of the solenoid. If it is not connected to the frame in some way, (the usually used grounding source) then the solenoid won't work and it won't turn the starter. If it does not normally connect to the frame, then there would likely be a smaller black ground wire to the solenoid too.

I remember in the old days when the old beater car had a bad solenoid, I'd just touch a big screwdriver across the two heavy duty connectors on the starter solenoid. It had the same effect as if the switch IN the solenoid worked and it would turn the starter over. But boy oh boy would there be sparks from doing that!

So there you go. Not only did you learn what it is, but also how it works and why it is used.
HTH

[bandito2]

Oh, also that plug on the radiator is either a temperature sender or the temperature sensing switch for the radiator fan. When you first just turn on the key with a cold engine, does the fan come on? If it does then the PO rigged it up that way because the temperature sensing switch is bad or the wires on the connector to it broke off and it was easier to just patch the wires together for full time fan operation. Or the connector itself broke or any number of other things that caused non-operation. Normally your fan should be off unless the coolant gets hot enough to activate the fan switch.

If the fan is running all the time then check the wires to the fan; I'd bet you find some wires twisted together and taped. If he went all out with his remedy then he may have used a crimp connector here and there. But the fan will eventually wear out if it runs ALL the time.

You say your temperature was pegged? Check that when the engine is cold. If it is pegged when the engine is cold then that is another thing you'll need to correct. If not, then if you take another look at the the radiator, you may notice another one of those plugs in the radiator (or somewhere between the radiator and the engine) but with wires that are connected to it. That would be the temperature sender for the gauge and the one without wires to it is the temperature sensing switch for the fan. Or maybe he has swapped the temperature sensing switch wires for the fan switch wires and then (I think) the temp gauge would read either stone cold or pegged hot with no readings given in between because the fan switch is either off or on and the temperature sender has gradual electrical resistance depending on the coolant temperature. That resistance is converted into a graduated display of temperature on the gauge.

I don't really know anything about the particular manufacture brand of your scoot so I can't be specific about where things are or what they look like.
But those temperature senders and temperature activated switches are pretty basic to water cooled engines.
HTH

[bandito2]

One more thing; the radiator does not need electrical power to work. It is passive. It works simply by having coolant pass through it so it can transfer the heat away. It does that by air passing by the tubing with cooling vanes on it in the radiator. The engine provides the power to the water/coolant pump that pushes the coolant around the engine to pick up the heat and then through the radiator to cool it and then back through the engine again. It's a continuous cycle.

If your water pump stops working, or the thermostat stays stuck closed then the coolant mostly just sits there and gathers more heat until it is too much. (then bad things can start to happen to the engine ) Actually a thermostat will stay closed and keep the coolant from flowing around until coolant heats up to operating temperature, then the thermostat opens and lets the coolant flow normally around the whole cooling system.

I hope you guys don't mind me going on and on like this but it seems some are just learning about how their machines work. Understanding how they work makes things less of a mystery and empowers them to fix things themselves. (or at least helps with knowing just what the hell is going on with their bike.)

[ykdavid]

I found a wire with to white and green ends connected to each other dangling near the radiator. I plugged them into the radiator they fit but not sure whats + or - . now when I turn the key all I hear is the fuel pump. (no fan) maybe that's fixed?

I also cleaned the starter last night. [THE SPRINGS WHERE A B!TCH TO PUT BACK IN!!!]

My biggest problem right now is getting it fired up again. I turn the key to the on position, the fuel pump comes on then when I hold down the break and push the start button.. CLIIIIIIIIIIICK.

[bandito2]

Originally Posted by ykdavid

I found a wire with to white and green ends connected to each other dangling near the radiator. I plugged them into the radiator they fit but not sure whats + or - . now when I turn the key all I hear is the fuel pump. (no fan) maybe that's fixed?

I also cleaned the starter last night. [THE SPRINGS WHERE A B!TCH TO PUT BACK IN!!!]

My biggest problem right now is getting it fired up again. I turn the key to the on position, the fuel pump comes on then when I hold down the break and push the start button.. CLIIIIIIIIIIICK.

Maybe by plugging it in, it was fixed. But I thought you said the fan was working. Does that mean you for sure heard it running before you connected the wires into the plug on the radiator? What is your temp gauge doing now? (even though it's cold & not running but with the key turned on?)

On my bike the fan switch only has one wire going to it (Green) and my temp sender has two separate wires to it. (brown & white) (near the top of the radiator, but yours may be different somehow so don't expect yours to be exactly the same.) Mine is a Honda which very well may be different than yours in that way - you might look for your temperature sender there near the top of your radiator too. You might want to unplug those stray wires from the plug on the radiator again until you get a better idea about your starter. Those wires may not be correctly placed and could be running the battery down.

That cliiiiiick noise is coming from the starter and/or the solenoid and often is a symptom of a low battery. Or maybe you re-assembled the starter a little out of adjustment.

You could jump start it from a car battery, BUT! the car MUST BE TURNED OFF. Too much voltage comes from a running car and could ruin your electrics. If it still won't turn over when you do that then undo what you did with the starter and carefully put it back together paying close attention to the brushes (the things the springs push onto the contacts on the starter motor shaft) and the springs.

If anyone else here has a MC-13-250 or other scooter from this manufacturer, then It would be helpful to take a quick peek at the wires to the radiator fan and let us know what you see. Most things are often done the same or in a very similar way by a manufacturer on bikes of the same type though they're of different sizes.

Good luck with your repairs.

[jrryan]

I'll post the same answer here as I did at here:

Long story short someone has messed with this scooter. First of all the Bali 250 like a lot of scooters does not come with a electric fuel pump, they come with a vacuum pulse type pump. Some people do replace them with electric ones, myself I don't.

Second picture is the radiator and the brass colored switch is what is called the radiator thermo switch or sensor switch. When the radiator comes up to temp at around 167F this switch closes and turns the cooling fan on. It's apparent it's been unhooked and you mentioned the fan ran so it's been fixed to run all the time, not good as this will keep the battery down in most cases. In cold weather the fan won't even come on and in lots of cases isn't needed.

Last picture is the CDI part of the ignition system.

Smoke, temp pegged out all bad indicators of possible engine problems. This is the vertical 244cc cloned engine.


Not only do I know the wiring on this scooter wire per wire we have a wiring diagram for it and have a lot of members who know this engine and scooter well myself included.

JR

[ykdavid]

Since my last post I've got a battery charger and the scooter will start now. I've changed motor oil & gear oil and it runs smoother now. My scoot still overheats but since draining the radiator and refilling it takes longer. If you read my earlier posts I told you guys that I found the a wire not connecting the radiator that looked like it should so I connected it. now the fan never turns on so iv put the wire back now the fan starts running when I turn the key again. <-- I thought that would keep the temps down but not enough.

When draining/refilling the radiator I feel I did every thing right, I drained from the bottom. I made sure to get all the air out of the system when I refilled and for the most part the scoots temps run lower now but when I get around 45-50 the temps just climb the never come down. So on my test runs the scoot runs fine and does not overheat unless I get over 45.

Right now I feel if I stayed under 45 it would never overheat. <-- but that's not practical.

Anyone know whats wrong?


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[Guest_3]

does not overheat unless I get over 45.

a bad head gasket or thermostat maybe ??.

[ykdavid]

I'm not sure whats going on :(

[spandi]

I'm not quite clear on whats going on either. Two things, did you reconnect the temperature sensor and also in refilling the radiator did you burp your baby?


http://scootdawg.proboards.com/index...t&thread=11911