New Member Wolf Rugby II

[pthyx]

Hey, cool forum! I've seen a lot of good info on here but I know everyone has their own individual experience to share and build from.

I am new to motorbikes, been big into cycling and two wheels since forever, done cross country trips, bike packing, city track cog jamming and even some mild bmx/fixie stunts. Getting older and slower, and safer in some regards xD

Bought my first motorized two wheeler last year at age 35, having never ridden one before, no moped or dirt bike or anything. I stay under a rock, just different priorities I guess (-';

Needless to say, it's been a blast and I keep wanting more! The bike I got is a 2023 Wolf Rugby II - 150cc, GY6, ZNEN, 157 QMJ Zuma clone blah blah blah however you need to identify and relate.

Apparently, and I've never looked at it to be sure, but the dealer says it came with a performance 28mm carb as stock? Didn't start learning mechanical stuff on it this recently. I'm at about 7500 miles, I do my regular oil changes, the belt has virtually no signs of wear, the oil never leaks, I ride in a hilly city for work commute, errands, and fun, year round 110 F summers or -40 wind-chill winters, it's all good. Just would rather cycle if it's a monsoon or the snow is over an inch or frozen to the roads. I don't mind a little challenge but I won't overdo it. Never laid the bike down, and having fun with it as always. After the first 10 months I noticed it went from 50/55mph on flats and 40 uphills down to about 45/50 on flats and struggling to go 35 uphills. I cleaned the air filter and it improved a bit. I think the fastest speed I got was about 61 downhill when I first bought it.

In the last two months, I've upgraded to a Pitmoto high flow exhaust (had to have a shop bend the pipe a little), and put in a Ban Jing CVT kit. 1500 springs, and 12g roller weights.

Now I dont know what the stock spring was but it was black. The stock weights were 17g. I also put in an 842mm belt versus the stock 835.

I gain quite a bit of boost uphill now, but I am looking for 50 mph cruising uphill speeds.

Maybe I need to adjust the weights again? I've got a Primo kit of 7g-18g rollers to play with.

My top end speed hasn't changed really. Just the acceleration and shifting ability.

Everything else is pretty sound on, I was told by my dealer it would last a long time if I treatvit good, and it has indeed.

So what can I do to up the top end? Do CDI rev limit removers actually do anything? Would adding a high flow air filter and retuning the carb help? A better spark plug like iridium/pregapped? Should I even go so far as to port the head? I don't want to put on a big bore kit or mess up the engine too much since most of the stock stuff is wonderful as is for our city and the outer limits. If I was highway speeds, I will use a car or truck. 50 uphill without redlining and 60 cruising on flats would be nice. I know it's possible, but I've seen a lot of faulty suggestions besides the good ones.

I think I can even fit 140/80/12 tires on it as opposed to the 120/70/12s.

It's an awesome adventure machine well worth the month, id just like some help on sprucing it up a bit.

Thanks folks

[kz1000st]

Are you still running the original belt? I would start there. Also have the valve clearances been checked? Oh, and air pressures in the tires. Before going on a search of oddities check the basics.

[pthyx]

Originally Posted by kz1000st

Are you still running the original belt? I would start there. Also have the valve clearances been checked? Oh, and air pressures in the tires. Before going on a search of oddities check the basics.

Well today, less than a month of use, and the Pitmoto exhaust broke off at the manifold weld. I contacted the seller but they seem hard pressed to issue refunds or replacements...

I put my stock exhaust back on, it's had the end cap cut off to relieve the pressure a little.

The Pitmoto was high flow and would give pops and bangs, I know that's not exactly good unless it's tuned to be that way. Buy it was fine while I rode it, gave me a little boost believe it or not. Asides that shitty mounting weld.

Stock exhaust back on and end cap cut off, it's a little louder but not straight pipe loud. Not getting any pops or crackles now so I know the mix isn't too lean.

Ban Jing CVT kit 1500 content spring, 1500 clutch springs, 12g weights 835 belt as of right now. Stock air box. Never adjusted carb, it's always given me fair idle between 1200 and 1700 even in dead of winter and with exhausts swapped.

Going about 40-45 uphills now, top speed of 55 downhill. Wants to stay around 5-6k rpm and can't push anymore rpm or mph even when full throttle downhill.

Should I try a lighter weight set? 3 10s and 3 11s? 9s?
It seemed a little zippier with the stock clutch and springs and high flow exhaust.

[pthyx]

Just feels a little weak now, might just be my ears trickng me with the lower revs. The rpms are lower than the stock clutch and spring, by about 1000. I could put on the 842 belt, swap weights again from the 12s i have in now. Tires max is 32 psi I think. I keep it around 25-30.

[sc00ter]

Swapping out the torque spings are usually reserved for a big bore kit. Ive seen people do a 500rpm increase, say a 1000rpm spring to a 1500 one and it didn't hurt but bigger jumps are for BBK's. Most stock scooters have heavy rollers in them from the factory, to help beat emissions. Usually dropping them 2 grams will wake a stock scooter up. Concerning your loss of power:

I agree with kz1000. Swap the belt with a new one. Belts are usually good for around 8000 miles, give or take. I've seen people push 10,000 before. Get the SAME SIZE belt as the original. A slightly longer or shorter or wider belt is not going to give any performance gains. Stock size only!

Sometimes a "free flow" type of exhaust will require a upjet, like going from a 90 main to the next size up. Not sure what main jet increments that your carb uses. Also, most of the "pod" style air filters suck. They just make extra intake noise and also require a upjet most of the time. I always stay with the stock air box.

I also have zero faith in the so-called higher rev limiter devices, but then again I've never dealt with a scooter that was "restricted" that way. Sometimes a manufacturer will install one to reduce the stress on their motor, and to lower warranty claims. I've never had a rev-limiter kick in and slow down any of my scooters.

A little pop and snap is normal on a thumper. I'd check the spark plug though and see what color it is. Dark black means rich and white means lean. You want a mocha color on the plug. There are a ton of YouTube videos explaining reading a spark plug with the "plug chop" method.

Do a build sheet and note all your changes. From stock to whatever you changed, so you know the original set-up and how to go back if needed. A build sheet also helps noticing changes and how said changes affect the scooters performance.

Sorry so long! I love these silly things and I have mine set up pretty good.

[pthyx]

Originally Posted by sc00ter

Swapping out the torque spings are usually reserved for a big bore kit. Ive seen people do a 500rpm increase, say a 1000rpm spring to a 1500 one and it didn't hurt but bigger jumps are for BBK's. Most stock scooters have heavy rollers in them from the factory, to help beat emissions. Usually dropping them 2 grams will wake a stock scooter up. Concerning your loss of power:

I agree with kz1000. Swap the belt with a new one. Belts are usually good for around 8000 miles, give or take. I've seen people push 10,000 before. Get the SAME SIZE belt as the original. A slightly longer or shorter or wider belt is not going to give any performance gains. Stock size only!

Sometimes a "free flow" type of exhaust will require a upjet, like going from a 90 main to the next size up. Not sure what main jet increments that your carb uses. Also, most of the "pod" style air filters suck. They just make extra intake noise and also require a upjet most of the time. I always stay with the stock air box.

I also have zero faith in the so-called higher rev limiter devices, but then again I've never dealt with a scooter that was "restricted" that way. Sometimes a manufacturer will install one to reduce the stress on their motor, and to lower warranty claims. I've never had a rev-limiter kick in and slow down any of my scooters.

A little pop and snap is normal on a thumper. I'd check the spark plug though and see what color it is. Dark black means rich and white means lean. You want a mocha color on the plug. There are a ton of YouTube videos explaining reading a spark plug with the "plug chop" method.

Do a build sheet and note all your changes. From stock to whatever you changed, so you know the original set-up and how to go back if needed. A build sheet also helps noticing changes and how said changes affect the scooters performance.

Sorry so long! I love these silly things and I have mine set up pretty good.

This is good info! I will try putting the stock clutch back in so my setup will be:

Ban Jing performance variator and drive face
Stock pulley sheave
Stock clutch (1000rpm clutch springs and contra spring?)
Ban Jing bell
Instead of the ban Jing 12g weights in now I'll go back closer to stock weights and do half 12g half 17g or 16g and see how that works for attcking hills, and hopefully keeping that 55 top speed on flats.

I'll also keep the stock belt in for now 835mm.

Still going with the stock airbox and exhaust (chopped a little for better airflow)

If I get a placement pipe for my high flow I'll put that one back on.

I'm due for a one year 7500mi tune up soon so and can hopefully have a mechanic rejet the carb, check battery and spark plug, as well as fuel filter (replace any if needed) and maybe clean the air filter again.

Probably a good idea to include a full lube and brake pads/brake fluid/gear oil freshen too.

[sc00ter]

Some of those "off-brand" transmission performance parts are not always what they seem/say. If we use something we're not used to, like when Naraku first popped up on the scene, we would double check the springs.

You can press on a Torque/Contra spring on a house scale to get an idea if its tension. YouTube has some how-to videos.

I also have a tension tester for springs, like the 3 little springs in the clutch. Oh, and if their painted make sure the paint is broken up and the springs open freely! I've been bit by red Malossi springs before that were painted shut!

Also, buy a little kitchen scale and double check that the roller weights are what they say. Plus you can pretend your'e a drug dealer with your cool little scale!

I have free flow exhaust for my scooter but I haven't put it on yet. I also have a higher range variator (allows the rollers to travel further out), a knurled clutch bell and a hit clutch I'll get around to installing one year. It's flat here so I build scooters for take-off!