break in ??????

suddethtray · 02-01-2013, 05:40 AM

give me ur opinions on break in of a bbk plz thanks

prodigit · 02-01-2013, 08:07 AM

Just the same principle of the break in of a regular engine.

ryan52 · 02-01-2013, 10:19 AM

i like to get on it for like 50 yards -100 slow back down to about 35 then periodicly go back up and down. for about 300miles

ryan52 · 02-01-2013, 10:20 AM

not in one ride but itll take a week or so

lovemy2strokes · 02-01-2013, 11:00 AM

I try to do 8-10 heat cycles before riding to seat the rings and bearings. If you have a head temp gauge start up the engine and let it idle till 120, then do slow up and down revs up to 5k on the stand until it hits 200-220 F then shut it down till under 100 F, then repeat. You can let it cool completely its all the same but at least under 100F.
Then go for a ride around the block or a big open parking lot, anywhere thats not hilly, and try to keep RPMs under 5-6k but never maintaining any rpms for at least 45-60 minutes. It sounds boring but its necessary. Then for about 2 tanks of gas after and initial trial ride dont use anything over 3/4 throttle. After 2 tank you should be good to go usually. Just make sure that while youre doing all the break in that youre not lean, rich is ok.

lovemy2strokes · 02-01-2013, 11:04 AM

Thats how I do break in on my 2 strokes, 4t is about the same except I change my oil after I do all the heat cycles and initial trial run to check for shaving in the oil. I only use conventional/regular/dino oil for break in, after 300 miles I use full synthetic. I recommend Royal purple oil for after break in.

suddethtray · 02-01-2013, 01:02 PM

yeah runs great on stand got fuel or air problem when i ride it wont take throttle unless i
pump it

lovemy2strokes · 02-01-2013, 05:16 PM

Too lean.

suddethtray · 02-01-2013, 11:58 PM

so i get confused in on mixture or out to richen

prodigit · 02-02-2013, 03:35 AM

I personally get great results equipping it with thin oil, 10W30, just idling the thing for the first minute, take it very gentle, ride it down the street a good mile, in a start-stop motion (accelerate, engine brake), staying below 5mph, and come back riding below 10MPH in start-engine brake motion.

Let it cool down for at least 30 minutes, 1 hour or more for a 150+cc, and start again, doing a series of WOT accelerations to 10MPH, and engine brakes. After an hour or so, take it upto 20MPH, then one hour to 30.
Best results with WOT accelerations, to a certain speed limit. Don't let your engine rev too high though..., followed by engine braking.

Usually, the engine has some grinding/odd vibration feeling to it. It'l go away, after a few miles of start-stop travel. Once the engine feels kinda smooth, test it out on the higher speeds. Don't do WOT top speed for at least not the first 50-75 miles.
Some people say to change the oil at 50 miles, I'd say anywhere between 75 and 100 miles. The carbon in the oil helps filing off the cylinder walls, and besides, at 50miles there's not too much debris in the engine oil yet.
Change engine oil at 100, 300, 600, 1000, miles, and every 1000-2000 miles (1000 miles for thin oils like 5W30, 10W30, and 10w40, and 2000 miles for thicker oils like 15W40, and 15W50)...

qwertydude · 02-02-2013, 01:56 PM

On the first start let it completely warm up idling usually 15 minutes or so, then after that accelerate to full throttle maximum speed possible and then back off to normal riding speeds. Ride around for a bit then hit full throttle again. Usually normal city riding simulates this close enough. Do this continuously for the 25 miles, try to do it all in one run, and then change the oil. This is considered the hard break in process. It helps seat the rings and cylinder with maximum pressure. It's seems counter intuitive but if you read this site it makes sense.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I've broken in my engines like this. And throughout owning numerous GY6 scooters I've never had one that lost compression or consumed oil due to ring blow by also testing oils I've found it to have less gasoline contamination upon oil change than the used scooters that I bought. This tells me the hard break in did serve to better seal the cylinder.

As for oil change. I'm also a member of the bobistheoilguy forum and I take my oil seriously. I've determined through my engineering knowledge the pattern for particle build up in oil changes during break in is roughly logarithmic in nature. So I determined the oil change interval should be roughly exponential to keep particle content in the oil at a constant minimum while not changing oil more often than necessary.

This means changing oil at 25 miles, 50, 100, 250, 500, 1000, and then after that the engine is fully broken in and switch to synthetic and change every 1000 miles after.

prodigit · 02-02-2013, 11:47 PM

I generally have an issue with going top speed from the getgo.
Many websites actually promote waiting with going full speed, at least until you have 25 or 50 miles on the bike (some even say 100 miles).
The reason is, that the cylinder walls are still not filed off. When going WOT @ full speed, you heat up the engine quite a lot, and might even burn oil.
You could also chip off chips off the cylinder walls, nothing worse than chips of metal in your engine block, while the cylinder walls have grooves in them!

I've had one bike like this! The groove causes me to change the oil much sooner, because of too high carbon concentration in the oil.

For that reason I do agree with going wot, but just not at full speed. Instead, just short bursts of WOT, climbing to a certain speed, and engine brake.

But that would be my reasoning on not to go WOT, I'm more than willing to hear another side of the conversation, on how it could benefit engine break in.

My method resulted in clean oil at every oil change.
The first 2 oilchanges I had the regular metal flakes (glister), but after 500 miles, the oil looks as good as new when changed).

02-01-2013, 08:07 AM	#2
prodigit Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Miami, FL Posts: 390	Just the same principle of the break in of a regular engine.
	0

02-01-2013, 10:20 AM	#4
ryan52 Join Date: Aug 2012 Posts: 17	not in one ride but itll take a week or so
	0

02-01-2013, 11:04 AM	#6
lovemy2strokes Join Date: Oct 2012 Posts: 40	Thats how I do break in on my 2 strokes, 4t is about the same except I change my oil after I do all the heat cycles and initial trial run to check for shaving in the oil. I only use conventional/regular/dino oil for break in, after 300 miles I use full synthetic. I recommend Royal purple oil for after break in.
	0

02-01-2013, 01:02 PM	#7
suddethtray Join Date: Dec 2012 Posts: 22	yeah runs great on stand got fuel or air problem when i ride it wont take throttle unless i pump it
	0

02-01-2013, 05:16 PM	#8
lovemy2strokes Join Date: Oct 2012 Posts: 40	Too lean.
	0

02-01-2013, 11:58 PM	#9
suddethtray Join Date: Dec 2012 Posts: 22	so i get confused in on mixture or out to richen
	0

02-02-2013, 03:35 AM	#10
prodigit Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Miami, FL Posts: 390	I personally get great results equipping it with thin oil, 10W30, just idling the thing for the first minute, take it very gentle, ride it down the street a good mile, in a start-stop motion (accelerate, engine brake), staying below 5mph, and come back riding below 10MPH in start-engine brake motion. Let it cool down for at least 30 minutes, 1 hour or more for a 150+cc, and start again, doing a series of WOT accelerations to 10MPH, and engine brakes. After an hour or so, take it upto 20MPH, then one hour to 30. Best results with WOT accelerations, to a certain speed limit. Don't let your engine rev too high though..., followed by engine braking. Usually, the engine has some grinding/odd vibration feeling to it. It'l go away, after a few miles of start-stop travel. Once the engine feels kinda smooth, test it out on the higher speeds. Don't do WOT top speed for at least not the first 50-75 miles. Some people say to change the oil at 50 miles, I'd say anywhere between 75 and 100 miles. The carbon in the oil helps filing off the cylinder walls, and besides, at 50miles there's not too much debris in the engine oil yet. Change engine oil at 100, 300, 600, 1000, miles, and every 1000-2000 miles (1000 miles for thin oils like 5W30, 10W30, and 10w40, and 2000 miles for thicker oils like 15W40, and 15W50)...
	0

02-02-2013, 01:56 PM	#11
qwertydude Join Date: Jan 2010 Posts: 139	On the first start let it completely warm up idling usually 15 minutes or so, then after that accelerate to full throttle maximum speed possible and then back off to normal riding speeds. Ride around for a bit then hit full throttle again. Usually normal city riding simulates this close enough. Do this continuously for the 25 miles, try to do it all in one run, and then change the oil. This is considered the hard break in process. It helps seat the rings and cylinder with maximum pressure. It's seems counter intuitive but if you read this site it makes sense. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm I've broken in my engines like this. And throughout owning numerous GY6 scooters I've never had one that lost compression or consumed oil due to ring blow by also testing oils I've found it to have less gasoline contamination upon oil change than the used scooters that I bought. This tells me the hard break in did serve to better seal the cylinder. As for oil change. I'm also a member of the bobistheoilguy forum and I take my oil seriously. I've determined through my engineering knowledge the pattern for particle build up in oil changes during break in is roughly logarithmic in nature. So I determined the oil change interval should be roughly exponential to keep particle content in the oil at a constant minimum while not changing oil more often than necessary. This means changing oil at 25 miles, 50, 100, 250, 500, 1000, and then after that the engine is fully broken in and switch to synthetic and change every 1000 miles after.
	0

02-02-2013, 11:47 PM	#12
prodigit Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Miami, FL Posts: 390	I generally have an issue with going top speed from the getgo. Many websites actually promote waiting with going full speed, at least until you have 25 or 50 miles on the bike (some even say 100 miles). The reason is, that the cylinder walls are still not filed off. When going WOT @ full speed, you heat up the engine quite a lot, and might even burn oil. You could also chip off chips off the cylinder walls, nothing worse than chips of metal in your engine block, while the cylinder walls have grooves in them! I've had one bike like this! The groove causes me to change the oil much sooner, because of too high carbon concentration in the oil. For that reason I do agree with going wot, but just not at full speed. Instead, just short bursts of WOT, climbing to a certain speed, and engine brake. But that would be my reasoning on not to go WOT, I'm more than willing to hear another side of the conversation, on how it could benefit engine break in. My method resulted in clean oil at every oil change. The first 2 oilchanges I had the regular metal flakes (glister), but after 500 miles, the oil looks as good as new when changed).
	0