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Old 02-28-2015, 03:02 PM   #1
mrk610   mrk610 is offline
 
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My Roket Mc 250B

New scooter owner here and looking for some info .
I need to know where I can purchase the battery and engine cover that is under the seat my came with out one. I also have a busted lock on my rear trunk . Id like to just replace the whole trunk
Any ideas where to purchase.
I also replaced the battery (CTX9-BS FP) with a duralast from Autozone was this the right battery.

Thanks in advance.

Mike K in South Jersey



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Old 03-03-2015, 08:45 AM   #2
kz1000st   kz1000st is offline
 
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http://www.roketa.com/product/produc...=0&proID=27312
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2008 Eagle Milano 150- 9,679 miles
2009 Honda Rebel 250- 10,434 miles
2009 CF Moto Fashion- 16,023 miles
2009 MC-114 50cc Cub Clone- 4,317 miles
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That's 30,049 China Scootin miles and Counting.
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Old 03-11-2015, 02:54 PM   #3
mrk610   mrk610 is offline
 
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Thanks I looked on the web site and cant seem to find the exact cover.
The small metal piece that the box lock clips to broke off so looking for a new lock any idea were to start . Ill try to get a pic .
Got the scoot striped of most of body fro full PM change all fluids adjustments.
One question I have a new NGK plug for the scoot but cant seem to find what the gap should be.
Thanks again to all

Mike K in South Jersey .



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Old 03-15-2015, 04:39 PM   #4
mrk610   mrk610 is offline
 
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Update.

Tried to adjust the valves today. I was not able to get the cover off of the timing chain so I went with 2 of the three things to make sure your at TDC.
Arrow lined up with notch which is viewed from the hole above the oil fill. I also took plug out to see top of piston.
Well guess its real important to align both marks.
I should of waited and got a small vise grip to remove the rounded bolt on the timing chain cover.
Did exhaust first and there was a tiny bit of play in the rocker arm. It was at .003 so adjusted it to .006.
I'm like this is not that bad. So onto the intake valve. No play at all in the rocker arm. So I start to loosen up the valve and loosen and loosen finally get it so I can put .004 gauge to fit. Thought I was good tighten all up started and OMG what a racked . I have a video will try to upload later. Ran out of time due to having to let engine cool.
My thoughts are that I was not a truly TCD. I'm thinking the intake must of just started to open the valve due to no play in the rocker arm, and the reason it took so may turns of the nut to loosen up enough to get the gauge in.
Any thoughts from the board on this.
Now I have to wait until I get back from the west coast to try again.

Mike K in South Jersey.
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Old 03-15-2015, 06:13 PM   #5
kz1000st   kz1000st is offline
 
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If you can't see the timing marks there's an old fashioned way. Turn the engine until the exhaust valve is all the way open and adjust the intake. Then turn the motor until the intake is open all the way (rocker arm all pushed down) and adjust the exhaust. I do one of mine that way.
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2008 Eagle Milano 150- 9,679 miles
2009 Honda Rebel 250- 10,434 miles
2009 CF Moto Fashion- 16,023 miles
2009 MC-114 50cc Cub Clone- 4,317 miles
twowheeler.yolasite.com/

That's 30,049 China Scootin miles and Counting.



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Old 03-15-2015, 07:44 PM   #6
mrk610   mrk610 is offline
 
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Thanks for the suggestion kz1000st. The more I think about it . the tension on the intake valve and the amount of turns of the bolt to loosen it should of been a red flag to me. I'll try that when I come back instead of taking vise grips to the lower bolt on the timing chain cover.

Mike K in south jersey .
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Old 03-16-2015, 06:44 AM   #7
kz1000st   kz1000st is offline
 
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Oh, and plug gap is around .027 inch.
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2008 Eagle Milano 150- 9,679 miles
2009 Honda Rebel 250- 10,434 miles
2009 CF Moto Fashion- 16,023 miles
2009 MC-114 50cc Cub Clone- 4,317 miles
twowheeler.yolasite.com/

That's 30,049 China Scootin miles and Counting.
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Old 03-16-2015, 12:19 PM   #8
mrk610   mrk610 is offline
 
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Thanks again kz1000st .
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Old 03-17-2015, 01:49 PM   #9
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Mine didn't have the covers either. Did have the rubber band strap to tie down the battery, though.
To cover my motor I took an old plastic trash can with flat sides and cut to fit a cover for the rectangular hole, and it works just fine.
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Old 03-19-2015, 11:42 AM   #10
mrk610   mrk610 is offline
 
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Smoak awesome idea thanks for that.
Started to take the front faring off , not to hard. Kinda of PIA to get to the head light bulbs stupid braket to hold them in.
So my next questions 4 of the 8 rubber mounts that hold the windshield on are trashed. Any idea were to get those ??
Did another valve adjust and followed k1000st and sounds much better. I still have a ticking but I don't think is is valves. I still would like to get that bottom bolt from the timing cover. Will have to try another vise grip.

Mike K in south Jersey .
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Old 04-13-2015, 04:20 PM   #11
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Finally got the PDI done . All fluids changed and new silicone vacuum lines and fittings. Kinda up in the air about the fuel pump and the fuel lines. will probable keep the vacuum pump for now. As for the fuel lines they look in good shape not as bad as vacuum lines where.
Had a PIA time flushing the coolant. I could not get the system to burb the air out. Ran scoot and let temp get up to 3/4 , top rad hot bottom cool so I know I got a big air bubble in the rad. First took the top hose off filled with coolant. Ran and same symptoms . I'm like WTF here. So I sat back and thought why will the system not burb. I finally took the small hose in the center of the top rad tank off and it was clogged with gunk. Blew that clean and started over again.
Scoot heated up burped and fan came on at 1/2 gauge.
The coolant that came out was like mud nasty brown reddish color. I flushed the system 4 times with clean water.
Now have to put the scoot back together and take for a ride.


Mike K in South Jersey.
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Old 04-14-2015, 09:47 PM   #12
scooter   scooter is offline
 
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Mike. May wanna run some radiator flush through that bad boy for a few miles then flush till clear. You could even run a little water/b12/muriatic cocktail through it for a bit to get that silicate sludge out of there. The muriatic will drop the ph for any silicates remaining and the b12 will loosen up the phosphates that stuck to the aluminum. Overheated on the side of the road is a real bummer coming home from a crappy day at work. Personally I'd pull thermostat and just let it go with an additive or cocktail for a bit.
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Old 04-16-2015, 09:27 AM   #13
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Scooter I did flush it 4 times and ran it for a bit . The last flush I only had clear water draining so I'm pretty sure I got all the Chinese crap out. I got her all put back together and had a good 15 mile ride with no problems. The only thing I did not do was take the variator out a see how the rollers looked. Don't know how reliable the speedo and tach are but I was cruising at 60 with tach at 5k . It has good smooth acceleration .
So going to ride for a couple hundred miles then change oil again and look at variator.


Mike in South Jersey.
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Old 04-17-2015, 01:18 AM   #14
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That's great! Glad it's running good for you. Sounds like you have it licked. My speedo is 22% off so basically worthless. I don't have a tach on mine but it's on order. Came from China for 8 bucks so it's still a week out. Can't get good fast and cheap all together right? Mines running so good though that i'm holding off buying the burg. I gave my 150 to my son, was gonna use the 250 to commute, and get a burg for my long hauler to the ranch. But after uni filter, de smog, by starter block off, re jet, lighter rollers and break in its cruising at 65 gps with a weeeeee bit of throttle left. Really all I need and I haven't even touched ignition or exhaust yet.
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Old 05-06-2015, 03:07 PM   #15
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Took the scoot to work today . First time riding in about 2 weeks been cold and rainy here is South Jersey. Got a quick question what is the capacity of the rear end fluid.
All the forums I looked at said that I either have to remove the belt cover for the drain bolt. On mine I have a screw in cap like for the oil but without the stick at the top for fill and a bolt for plug on the bottom


Thanks.
Mike K in SJ
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