Znen ZN250T-D Running Rough + Headlights

[Shadowfire]

The way your bike is wired, is:
1. The BATTERY(-) terminal is grounded to the chassis. GREEN(G) is also grounded to the chassis.
2. The BATTERY(+) terminal goes through a 15A main fuse, then travels to the MAIN SWITCH on the RED(R) wire.
3. The MAIN SWITCH (ignition) connects the RED(R) main fuse wire to the BLACK(B) ignition switched power wire (when the ignition is on).
4. The BLACK(B) wire goes to the fuse box to power the fused circuits.
5. The WHITE/RED (W/R) wire from the fuse box distributes the power to the brake light, horn, emergency flasher, blinkers, and instrument cluster. Not the fuse that you're interested in.
6. The BLACK/GREEN (B/G) wire from the fuse box powers the electronic ignition and the radiator fan. Again, not the fuse that you're interested in.
7. The BROWN/BLUE wire from the fuse box goes to what is labelled as the "RIGHT SWITCH" but I believe to be the left side handlebar switch.
8. The BLUE wire delivers power to the high beam, the WHITE wire delivers power to the low beam.

With the ignition "ON" you should be reading ~12V on the BROWN/BLUE wire, and either the BLUE or WHITE wire, depending on the headlight switch settings. You said that the low beams work, so you MUST be getting voltage on the BROWN/BLUE wire.

So the next thing I'm going to ask you to do, is to run a jumper a wire (20 AWG or larger) between the BROWN/BLUE wire and the BLUE wire and turn on the ignition. DO NOT LET THE EXPOSED CONTACTS SHORT TO THE CHASSIS WHILE THE IGNITION POWER IS ON (or you will be replacing fuses). If the high beams come on, check that the blue wire's connector is making a firm contact, then replace the switch assembly. If the high beams don't come on, you either have a blown high beam filament, or a break in the BLUE wire - check for voltage on the blue wire entering the headlight socket on the front cowling.

Also, 11.2V is a really discharged state for the battery. You should put it on a charger.

[blackout]

Originally Posted by Shadowfire

So the next thing I'm going to ask you to do, is to run a jumper a wire (20 AWG or larger) between the BROWN/BLUE wire and the BLUE wire and turn on the ignition. DO NOT LET THE EXPOSED CONTACTS SHORT TO THE CHASSIS WHILE THE IGNITION POWER IS ON (or you will be replacing fuses). If the high beams come on, check that the blue wire's connector is making a firm contact, then replace the switch assembly. If the high beams don't come on, you either have a blown high beam filament, or a break in the BLUE wire - check for voltage on the blue wire entering the headlight socket on the front cowling.

Wow! I love you.
The first thing I tried just now was connecting the BROWN/BLUE wire to the BLUE wire, turned on the ignition, and the high beam was working!

I will correct myself from earlier, when I mentioned 'green' wire I meant to say 'dark green'.
Is there a possibility that the dark green wire has a break somewhere? Because it doesn't seem to make any readings with negative or positive terminal of the battery. Perhaps when the switch connects the blue + dark green, it may not be completing the circuit.

[edit] I just tested the switch again and I am most certain it is working as needed. To prove it, with the switch uninstalled, I put a jumper from the green wire to the blue wire and the high beams did not work.
I can't quite figure out where the green wire leads to since it is wrapped up in a huge bundle that follows into a difficult part of the bike to get to.