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06-29-2019, 09:07 AM | #1 |
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 1
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Ruckus with no spark
I’m working on a custom build I have a gy6 ruckus with a rolling wrench 20 min oem harness adapter I’ve checked everything I can think of but no spark also my kill switch wire was bypassed I thought it might be that but I disconnected it and it tries to start either way anybody know what’s going on?
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06-29-2019, 12:02 PM | #2 |
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Norfolk, VA
Posts: 607
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Not really the same, but a friend did a Zuma swap on a Ruckus and we had to custom make a wire harness. So we had the frame powder coated and started putting it back together, relocating everything electrical to under the front headlight box. We had a spark issue also but ours was a weak ground, the powder coat prevented good ground points. So we went through the whole thing, grinding off the powder and using a drop of dielectric grease under each ground. Yamaha grounds everything where it ends ends, Honda grounds everything back to one ground point. Hope this helps and makes sense!
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07-01-2019, 03:52 PM | #3 |
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 12
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Have you tried swapping out the CDI for a known working one? I had a CDI die on me recently and it just stopped working on a ride one day and wouldnt try to start back up. Easiest way is to start at the stator and make sure it isn't grounding out somewhere. Get a multimeter, set to handle 150 ohms (resistance), and put the ground probe on the green ground wire, and put the positive probe on the blue/white, and the red/black wires. If it either overloads or says 0 ohms on either of those thats the problem. Typical resistance value should be somewhere between 125 and 175 ohms. If the stator is the problem, youll just need to visit your local shop and replace. If it isn't, the only other things are the CDI, ignition coil, and ignition wire. You can test the ignition coil/wire by setting the multimeter to 20K ohms and ground probe to wire on top, positive probe to the spark plug cap. Typical readings should be between 6-8K ohms.
For the record, if you don't own a multimeter then it will pay for itself right here. I have a $40 autozone one that gets the job done just fine, and it could save you from buying 3 of those 4 things and just buying the one thats actually broken!
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