Differences between two tao tao scooters. - Page 5

tdsj · 03-07-2013, 05:52 PM

@teddy ya I just put the new cr7hix plug in earlier today. I just drained the gas tank and ran it out of gas. I'm going to go get some premium fuel for it since i dont know how long that gas has been in there. also I have nooooooo idea of how to adjust valves lol. Nor do I think I have the tool for it.

tdsj · 03-07-2013, 07:16 PM

I put the new gas in. Sadly it was only 89 octane instead of 93 like I wanted. But the scooter still fluctuates but not as bad. And it doesn't die now. It goes down to 1000rpm up to 3000rpm. Can't remember if I mentioned this but it appears to be running rich. But if I turn the idle screw down anymore then it will start dying again... And while I'm at it I might as well ask, how do I know what mm carb I'm supposed to be looking at since they have I think 16mm-19mm carbs for 4stroke 50cc scooters. AND LAST BUT NOT LEAST I DO REALIZE THIS THREAD IS GETTING QUITE LONG. AND I APOLOGIZE FOR ALL THESE PROBLEMS I'M BRINGING TO THE BOARD.

prodigit · 03-07-2013, 08:56 PM

3000RPM is WAY too much!
Where do you live somewhere? In Alaska?
Or perhaps your tach is set to a wrong value?

Normally those 4 strokes idle anywhere between 1500 and 2000 rpm.
On a really hot day in S Florida, my ATM50 was idling at ~800RPM, but it is not recommendable! I set it to ~1200RPM, and in the winter to ~1400RPM.
Anything above 2k RPM should make your scoot want to go forward (on my scoot, above 2200RPM the scoot starts moving, as the clutch engages).

teddy554 · 03-07-2013, 09:13 PM

no problem that is what the thread is for, but a valve job isnt that hard once you do it for the first time and it only requires a screw driver and a 8mm socket 9mm 10mm and some feeler gauges

tdsj · 03-07-2013, 10:19 PM

@prodigit lol no I don't live in alaska. I live in indiana. it's about 30 degrees right now. And ya I was figuring 3000rpm was too much. On the plus side maybe is that my back tire doesn't spin or even turn at that rate. I just don't get why it has such a HIGH fluctuation. it will go up to 3000 and down to 1000 almost stalling out. @teddy I finally got the top off the carb to get access to the needle and it's all clean as a whistle. I guess my next step is to go to autozone or advance auto and get some feeler gauges. is there a specific number i should set them to? since I don't know what motor this has in it specifically.

scootnwinn · 03-07-2013, 11:28 PM

Fluctuating idle usually means vacuum leak... Do you know how to check for one?

tdsj · 03-07-2013, 11:55 PM

@scootwinn other than visually inspecting them no i don't know any techniques. Are there any?

scootnwinn · 03-08-2013, 12:08 AM

yes At least 2, some frown on my favorite method but it works... Get a can of carb cleaner and spray it while the engine is idling. When you spray it near the leak the idle will increase or stabalize. Fairly simple really the other is to use water instead and listen for the idle to drop...

teddy554 · 03-08-2013, 01:26 AM

any will work that has .03-.05 range but there under ten bucks,

tdsj · 03-08-2013, 01:19 PM

K I'm getting ready to go buy the feeler gauge and can of carb cleaner. I have a question though I'm hoping someone can answer while I'm gone. on the second to the last video that teddy posted above at 3:25 he says that the process has to be reversed in order to do the exhaust valve. but the other videos don't mention that? They just say to put the BIG hole towards the front and then adjust the valves. So I'm not sure what to do on that since that video doesn't say in detail what he means by reversing the process. Does he mean put the BIG hole facing back for the exhaust adjustment? or? Thanks

scootnwinn · 03-08-2013, 01:29 PM

Just follow the other videos I adjust both sets at the same time with out moving the engine at all. Rotate it and check them twice befor you close it up...

teddy554 · 03-08-2013, 03:14 PM

+1 the most important thing is that there is no contact of the cam lobs

tdsj · 03-08-2013, 05:36 PM

K I adjusted the valves. That didn't fix the fluctuations. I used the carb cleaner on every area that had a clamp as well as the entire hoses as well as the areas that use gaskets from front to back and it didnt act different at any time during that. Sooooo what's my next step lol.

tdsj · 03-08-2013, 05:52 PM

K I just took a video of it acting the way it does. Who wants it? p.s. it had been running for about 15 minutes before I took the video.

teddy554 · 03-08-2013, 06:01 PM

post it, man that is strange. and you are sure there is no air leaks all the screw are tight around the carb air box is sealed right

03-07-2013, 09:13 PM	#64
teddy554 Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: staunton va Posts: 319	no problem that is what the thread is for, but a valve job isnt that hard once you do it for the first time and it only requires a screw driver and a 8mm socket 9mm 10mm and some feeler gauges __________________ 2010 Cpi Oliver 70cc, naruku trans kit, downhill handle bars, tecnigas rsll pipe, s6 4g rollers, Vento R4 with 90cc 1e52qmf technigas next r 100cc pipe Naruku, 21mm race carb, s6 4.5 g rollers
	0

03-07-2013, 11:28 PM	#66
scootnwinn Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Tierra Azul, NM Posts: 739	Fluctuating idle usually means vacuum leak... Do you know how to check for one? __________________ Do not fear mistakes. You will know failure. Continue to reach out. - Benjamin Franklin Join the HARDCORE 1983 Honda GL650I SilverWing
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03-08-2013, 12:08 AM	#68
scootnwinn Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Tierra Azul, NM Posts: 739	yes At least 2, some frown on my favorite method but it works... Get a can of carb cleaner and spray it while the engine is idling. When you spray it near the leak the idle will increase or stabalize. Fairly simple really the other is to use water instead and listen for the idle to drop... __________________ Do not fear mistakes. You will know failure. Continue to reach out. - Benjamin Franklin Join the HARDCORE 1983 Honda GL650I SilverWing
	0

03-08-2013, 01:26 AM	#69
teddy554 Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: staunton va Posts: 319	any will work that has .03-.05 range but there under ten bucks, __________________ 2010 Cpi Oliver 70cc, naruku trans kit, downhill handle bars, tecnigas rsll pipe, s6 4g rollers, Vento R4 with 90cc 1e52qmf technigas next r 100cc pipe Naruku, 21mm race carb, s6 4.5 g rollers
	0

03-08-2013, 01:29 PM	#71
scootnwinn Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Tierra Azul, NM Posts: 739	Just follow the other videos I adjust both sets at the same time with out moving the engine at all. Rotate it and check them twice befor you close it up... __________________ Do not fear mistakes. You will know failure. Continue to reach out. - Benjamin Franklin Join the HARDCORE 1983 Honda GL650I SilverWing
	0

03-07-2013, 07:16 PM	#62
tdsj Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Indiana Posts: 49	I put the new gas in. Sadly it was only 89 octane instead of 93 like I wanted. But the scooter still fluctuates but not as bad. And it doesn't die now. It goes down to 1000rpm up to 3000rpm. Can't remember if I mentioned this but it appears to be running rich. But if I turn the idle screw down anymore then it will start dying again... And while I'm at it I might as well ask, how do I know what mm carb I'm supposed to be looking at since they have I think 16mm-19mm carbs for 4stroke 50cc scooters. AND LAST BUT NOT LEAST I DO REALIZE THIS THREAD IS GETTING QUITE LONG. AND I APOLOGIZE FOR ALL THESE PROBLEMS I'M BRINGING TO THE BOARD.
	0

03-07-2013, 11:55 PM	#67
tdsj Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Indiana Posts: 49	@scootwinn other than visually inspecting them no i don't know any techniques. Are there any?
	0

03-08-2013, 01:19 PM	#70
tdsj Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Indiana Posts: 49	K I'm getting ready to go buy the feeler gauge and can of carb cleaner. I have a question though I'm hoping someone can answer while I'm gone. on the second to the last video that teddy posted above at 3:25 he says that the process has to be reversed in order to do the exhaust valve. but the other videos don't mention that? They just say to put the BIG hole towards the front and then adjust the valves. So I'm not sure what to do on that since that video doesn't say in detail what he means by reversing the process. Does he mean put the BIG hole facing back for the exhaust adjustment? or? Thanks
	0

03-08-2013, 03:14 PM	#72
teddy554 Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: staunton va Posts: 319	+1 the most important thing is that there is no contact of the cam lobs __________________ 2010 Cpi Oliver 70cc, naruku trans kit, downhill handle bars, tecnigas rsll pipe, s6 4g rollers, Vento R4 with 90cc 1e52qmf technigas next r 100cc pipe Naruku, 21mm race carb, s6 4.5 g rollers
	0

03-08-2013, 05:36 PM	#73
tdsj Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Indiana Posts: 49	K I adjusted the valves. That didn't fix the fluctuations. I used the carb cleaner on every area that had a clamp as well as the entire hoses as well as the areas that use gaskets from front to back and it didnt act different at any time during that. Sooooo what's my next step lol.
	0

03-08-2013, 05:52 PM	#74
tdsj Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Indiana Posts: 49	K I just took a video of it acting the way it does. Who wants it? p.s. it had been running for about 15 minutes before I took the video.
	0

03-08-2013, 06:01 PM	#75
teddy554 Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: staunton va Posts: 319	post it, man that is strange. and you are sure there is no air leaks all the screw are tight around the carb air box is sealed right __________________ 2010 Cpi Oliver 70cc, naruku trans kit, downhill handle bars, tecnigas rsll pipe, s6 4g rollers, Vento R4 with 90cc 1e52qmf technigas next r 100cc pipe Naruku, 21mm race carb, s6 4.5 g rollers
	0