Ignition switch failures.

jassing · 09-19-2015, 07:12 PM

We have a chinese scooter that has given us very little problems... That is, except for the ignition switch.

We are on our 3rd ignition switch.

Every time it is the same: 1st you have to wiggle the key just right to get the scooter to "turn on"; Then after that, it just fails, so you can't start the scooter no matter what. (it will crank, but no spark or: it won't even turn over) -- so it's like the ignition switch just gets 'used up' and either won't connect the power or won't release the kill switch.

Is there any way (or place) to go to get a descent ignition switch? I'm almost to the point of just adding a hidden toggle switch or RFID type switch to turn the ignition on. It is a fairly big PITA to take the plastic off to replace the switch... I would rather just put a good switch in there instead of the (obviously subpar) chinese switches we've been using.

bull · 09-21-2015, 07:17 PM

I doubt that the quality of the switch is the problem. It is far more likely that water is getting into the switch and corroding the terminals and also jamming the key tumblers.

I have repaired many of them by simply taking them apart, very carefully cleaning the contacts, removing and debris accumulation under the rotating contact plates, then adding dielectric grease -- very sparingly-- to the contacts.

Also get some "Deep Creep" parts loosener from your local auto parts store and while everything is apart, spray lots of it into the tumblers and work them a lot with the key, then flush it out with more. Allow it to drain, then blow and excess out with compressed air.

Reassemble and reinstall.

jassing · 09-25-2015, 01:05 PM

Bull....
The scooter is stored inside; ridden once (home) in the rain when new.
The innards are loose. The 1st one I tried to open, but parts just fell out and some where clearly broken. The rest all felt exactly like the 1st, like internal parts broke.
I tried deepcreep; no difference.

bull · 09-26-2015, 06:44 PM

Of course the parts are going to fall out when you disassemble as the rotating contacts are just two plates with springs underneath them for tension against the other half of the electrical part of the switch.

The mechanical part (tumblers) is what you need to clean and lube -- while the electrical half is off. Not while it is completely assembled.

If it is not getting wet and the tumblers are binding, check to make sure you don't have a lot of keys on the key ring weighing it down causing the problem. Think GM and its switch problems.

09-21-2015, 07:17 PM	#2
bull Join Date: Feb 2015 Posts: 257	I doubt that the quality of the switch is the problem. It is far more likely that water is getting into the switch and corroding the terminals and also jamming the key tumblers. I have repaired many of them by simply taking them apart, very carefully cleaning the contacts, removing and debris accumulation under the rotating contact plates, then adding dielectric grease -- very sparingly-- to the contacts. Also get some "Deep Creep" parts loosener from your local auto parts store and while everything is apart, spray lots of it into the tumblers and work them a lot with the key, then flush it out with more. Allow it to drain, then blow and excess out with compressed air. Reassemble and reinstall.
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09-26-2015, 06:44 PM	#4
bull Join Date: Feb 2015 Posts: 257	Of course the parts are going to fall out when you disassemble as the rotating contacts are just two plates with springs underneath them for tension against the other half of the electrical part of the switch. The mechanical part (tumblers) is what you need to clean and lube -- while the electrical half is off. Not while it is completely assembled. If it is not getting wet and the tumblers are binding, check to make sure you don't have a lot of keys on the key ring weighing it down causing the problem. Think GM and its switch problems.
	0