Today is not my day...more issues

[antchainscoot]

Try spraying some starting fluid into the air intake. I would also clean (if washable foam) or replace the air filter.

[Frank Castle]

Originally Posted by antchainscoot

Try spraying some starting fluid into the air intake. I would also clean (if washable foam) or replace the air filter.

i checked the air filter, its pretty clean

[kz1000st]

The clanking noise sounds like your starter gear disengaging and re-engaging. Try charging the battery and see if that helps. The dying is hard. I would try spraying starter fluid in the carburetor intake and see if that keeps it running. If it does you have crap in the carb.

[blueboy5000]

1) make sure throttle is adjusted correctly. you shouldn't have much play in the throttle cable. You adjust this by using the two nuts on the throttle-cable housing attached to the carb,

2) turn up the idle. The bike should idle around 2000-2200 rpms when cold started, and should drop to 1800 or so after 5 minutes. But right now you just want a fast idle so you can adjust the bike's carb. The idle screw is the screw with a spring on it right that makes contact with the throttle cable.

3) if you have not done so, seat the mixture screw and tun it counter-clockwise (left) 2 and 1/2 turns.

4) let bike run 10 minutes. After bike has remained running for ten minutes, turn mixture crew 1/4 turn to left. wait five seconds, listen for RPM increase. Repeat until rpms do not rise. turn CLOCKWISE 1/2 turn EXACTLY. This is a SLIGHTLY RICH mixture. This is where your mixture should be for optimum performance.

5) set idle using idle screw to 1800 rpms.

[Frank Castle]

Originally Posted by blueboy5000

1) make sure throttle is adjusted correctly. you shouldn't have much play in the throttle cable. You adjust this by using the two nuts on the throttle-cable housing attached to the carb,

2) turn up the idle. The bike should idle around 2000-2200 rpms when cold started, and should drop to 1800 or so after 5 minutes. But right now you just want a fast idle so you can adjust the bike's carb. The idle screw is the screw with a spring on it right that makes contact with the throttle cable.

3) if you have not done so, seat the mixture screw and tun it counter-clockwise (left) 2 and 1/2 turns.

4) let bike run 10 minutes. After bike has remained running for ten minutes, turn mixture crew 1/4 turn to left. wait five seconds, listen for RPM increase. Repeat until rpms do not rise. turn CLOCKWISE 1/2 turn EXACTLY. This is a SLIGHTLY RICH mixture. This is where your mixture should be for optimum performance.

5) set idle using idle screw to 1800 rpms.

i did all that but now the bike does not even stay on? after i changed the carb the bike lasted only 2 days fine and now it doesnt want to stay on, when i let go of the throttle it turns off. too late now, its in the mechanic shop as we speak.

[whitney1207]

I had my scooter "looked at" by a mechanic for hard starting. He supposedly swapped out the carbs, put new spark plug, and check the valve clearance.

Well none of that helped so I got into it myself. I found that the enricher tip was cutoff and the air fuel screw had the oring missing. Besides the fact that it was all kinds of dirt in the carb.

Also I had an issue with the starter not spinning fast enough to turn the motor and sometimes would just spin... I had a bad engine ground.

[antchainscoot]

Originally Posted by Frank Castle

i checked the air filter, its pretty clean

You need to try the starting fluid. Behind the filter is a hole. Spray a little starting fluid into that and start your scooter.

Here is a youtube video on how to use starting fluid (fast forward to 3:48 in the video):


Even works for a 4-stroke lawnmower engine:

[ng5y]

I too had a failure to start, after it stranded me on the side of the road miles from home. I spent an entire day trying to get the issue resolved and nuthin I tried worked. I correctly diagnosed that there was an issue with the stator. But I took it to the dealer to have that sorted out. Just got the scooter in February and the engine has a 1 year warranty but some how they want even more than $200 to fix it. I will have them fully explain themselves before I give in.

[inuyasha]

Originally Posted by ng5y

I too had a failure to start, after it stranded me on the side of the road miles from home. I spent an entire day trying to get the issue resolved and nuthin I tried worked. I correctly diagnosed that there was an issue with the stator. But I took it to the dealer to have that sorted out. Just got the scooter in February and the engine has a 1 year warranty but some how they want even more than $200 to fix it. I will have them fully explain themselves before I give in.

Hi
Does your 1 year warrenty cover the electrical system as well? if so then they should honor it and fix at no cost to you if its only the engine then its on you as ther stator is eletrical systerm related not engine related
Here a copy oif what one of my scoots warrentys cover
THIS LIMITED WARRANTY COVERS THE FOLLOWING PARTS ONLY:
SYSTEM
PARTS

ENGINE
All internal lubricated parts, i.e. Pistons, piston pins, connecting rods, camshaft, timing chain, crankshaft, oil pump, water pump, valves, valve springs, valve guides, valve seats, valve lifters and valve push rods. Additionally, the engine head and cylinder will only be covered if damage is caused as a result of the mechanical failure of one or more internal lubricated components listed above.
ENGINE CASE
The Engine case itself will only be covered if the damage caused was solely as a result of the mechanical failure of one or more of the internal lubricated components listed above.

DRIVE SYSTEM
All internal lubricated parts contained within the drive axle housing case, i.e. differential, differential gears, drive shaft, drive axles, axle bearings, reverse gears and output shafts. The drive axle housing as well as the reverse gearbox housing, if damaged solely as a result of the mechanical failure of one or more or the internal lubricated components contained the drive axle housing will be covered. (Any bent, broken, or damaged by outside impact does not cover warranty)
FUEL SYSTEM
Carburetor, vacuum fuel pump, intake manifold, fuel tank.
ELECTRICAL
Stator, stator pickup, magneto, voltage regulator\ rectifier, CDI, starter relay\ starter solenoid, starter motor, distributor assembly injector relay, cable, switch and horn.
COOLING SYSTEM
Radiator, radiator cap, thermostat, thermostat housing, temperature indicator switch, cooling fan motors, water pump and water pump housing.
BRAKES
Calipers, drum housings, drum brake linkage, reservoirs, rotors, and lines.
CHASSIS
Frame, swing arms, A-arms, steering controls.
TRANSMISSION
All internal lubricated parts contained within the transmission case, i.e. flywheel, hydraulic shift linkage, kick start spindle, kick start secondary gear and transmission gears. The transmission case itself will be covered if the damage was solely as a result of mechanical failure of one or more of the internal lubricated components contained within the transmission case. (Improper changing gears without stop completed cause damage internal gears. "No cover warranty")
So check your warrenty to see what is covered and what isnt
Hope yoiu get it fixed easily and to your satisfaction
Take care4 and ride safely
Yours Hank