Done with vaccum petcocks! Found a cheap fix! - Page 2

rks · 01-27-2017, 05:59 PM

Zombie thread or what? I don't know how I missed seeing it a few years ago.... but thought I'd add this: Of the 11,769 retailers of NON-ETHANOL gas listed on pure-gas.org....15 are located in CT, and 723 in the great state of NY. You don't have to put up with disintegrating rubber pieces caused by running a 10% blend, if you don't want to. Find and use real gas, your scoot will be much happier.

DisillusionedPrepper · 01-27-2017, 06:02 PM

Ethanol is the problem. Not on the rubber however.
The Etoh. attacks the binding adhesive between the layers of rubber. That's where the issue is.

Also, you will read on the fuel pump that the fuel contains "UP TO" 10% Ethanol.
That does not always promise there is 10%.

A manual switch is a good idea for many reasons. The boost in power is one... That's not a boost from not using that vacuum. It's a boost in fuel flow. The inner workings of a manual valve are larger, and constant. The vacuum vale (OEM) has smaller orifices, and is a pulsed flow of fuel.

Last... Stabil Blue is the formula that neutralizes the Etoh. Back when ethanol was new to fuel (10 or so years ago) you could not store a boat over the winter with ethanol in the fuel. It would destroy fuel systems from the fuel tank to the carb. Stabil Blue was the answer back then.

Irish · 01-28-2017, 10:26 AM

The man next door to me is retired but sometimes works at the marina here. He said that the mechanics there tell everyone to use the higher octane. When in NH , a friend worked part time for the state. he said that every night they drained all of the fuel from the equipment , otherwise it would separate by morning & ruin the engines!

Irish

P.S. By equipment , I mean mowers & any small lawn type things. (trimmers , etc)

DisillusionedPrepper · 01-28-2017, 11:30 AM

The fact is there are two issues with Ethanol based fuels. First, and foremost it is hygroscopic. It attracts water from it's environment. Being that gasoline, and water have no molecular attraction the water in the ethanol is forced out of suspension, and settles to the bottom. That is where our fuel is drawn from in most applications so as you can guess...

Secondly ETOH is a very active solvent. It attacks everything from binders (glues/adhesives) to metals. Now oddly enough it has NO effect on rubber. What it does is dissolve the binders between rubber/paper (gaskets) rubber/plastics (fuel lines), even rubber and Teflon. Teflon is used in many fuel lines, and that thin wall of Teflon inside the fuel line will separate from the rubber casing, and collapse. This blocks the fuel flow, and leads to lean running conditions that can destroy an engine in short order.

10 years ago ETOH fuel was a menace. 5 years ago it was still a big issue. Today it should be a non issue as most gaskets, and fuel lines are made ETOH proof. The only remaining issue is age. As that fuel sits it absorbs more, and more water. The gas releases that water from the ETOH so the ETOH never becomes saturated, and the process continues.

I have a firm rule I stick to. If my fuel is not used within 3 months I will drain it, and toss it. You can used additives to "save" fuel but I'm not in that school. I've made a living out of repairing engines, and I don't need or want to repair my own (if that can be avoided).

If you are storing an engine (winter), drain the fuel completely, run the carb/injection system dry. There are further steps you can/should take to storing an engine but for the majority of us a dry system is better than ethanol fuel sitting in it.

Shifty150 · 02-06-2017, 10:31 PM

I just got one of these. Do I just replace it with the circular thing? What do i do with 3rd hose?

jocko7777 · 02-08-2017, 11:12 PM

can i place petcock anywehre in the fuel line so i have easy access to shut off can it be placed anywhere ? in the length of the fuel line

jocko7777 · 02-08-2017, 11:17 PM

have you seen the long post on my running problem i dont even know where to start after unclogging jeats adjust carb so it runs smooth it shuts down after 3/4 of mile approximately do i do cdi next petcock what i need to start somewhere could staor be bad after that distance and it starts up after it stall out and shuts off i can usually always get it to start right back up and let it idle

01-27-2017, 06:02 PM	#17
DisillusionedPrepper Join Date: Dec 2016 Posts: 109	Ethanol is the problem. Not on the rubber however. The Etoh. attacks the binding adhesive between the layers of rubber. That's where the issue is. Also, you will read on the fuel pump that the fuel contains "UP TO" 10% Ethanol. That does not always promise there is 10%. A manual switch is a good idea for many reasons. The boost in power is one... That's not a boost from not using that vacuum. It's a boost in fuel flow. The inner workings of a manual valve are larger, and constant. The vacuum vale (OEM) has smaller orifices, and is a pulsed flow of fuel. Last... Stabil Blue is the formula that neutralizes the Etoh. Back when ethanol was new to fuel (10 or so years ago) you could not store a boat over the winter with ethanol in the fuel. It would destroy fuel systems from the fuel tank to the carb. Stabil Blue was the answer back then. __________________ To explain my "User name"... I thought Hill' had this in the basket. Obviously she can't do anything right. It's OK tho... Dear Season is coming bitches!!!
	0

01-28-2017, 11:30 AM	#19
DisillusionedPrepper Join Date: Dec 2016 Posts: 109	The fact is there are two issues with Ethanol based fuels. First, and foremost it is hygroscopic. It attracts water from it's environment. Being that gasoline, and water have no molecular attraction the water in the ethanol is forced out of suspension, and settles to the bottom. That is where our fuel is drawn from in most applications so as you can guess... Secondly ETOH is a very active solvent. It attacks everything from binders (glues/adhesives) to metals. Now oddly enough it has NO effect on rubber. What it does is dissolve the binders between rubber/paper (gaskets) rubber/plastics (fuel lines), even rubber and Teflon. Teflon is used in many fuel lines, and that thin wall of Teflon inside the fuel line will separate from the rubber casing, and collapse. This blocks the fuel flow, and leads to lean running conditions that can destroy an engine in short order. 10 years ago ETOH fuel was a menace. 5 years ago it was still a big issue. Today it should be a non issue as most gaskets, and fuel lines are made ETOH proof. The only remaining issue is age. As that fuel sits it absorbs more, and more water. The gas releases that water from the ETOH so the ETOH never becomes saturated, and the process continues. I have a firm rule I stick to. If my fuel is not used within 3 months I will drain it, and toss it. You can used additives to "save" fuel but I'm not in that school. I've made a living out of repairing engines, and I don't need or want to repair my own (if that can be avoided). If you are storing an engine (winter), drain the fuel completely, run the carb/injection system dry. There are further steps you can/should take to storing an engine but for the majority of us a dry system is better than ethanol fuel sitting in it. __________________ To explain my "User name"... I thought Hill' had this in the basket. Obviously she can't do anything right. It's OK tho... Dear Season is coming bitches!!!
	0

02-08-2017, 11:17 PM	#22
jocko7777 Join Date: Jan 2017 Posts: 8	rowdy 150cc have you seen the long post on my running problem i dont even know where to start after unclogging jeats adjust carb so it runs smooth it shuts down after 3/4 of mile approximately do i do cdi next petcock what i need to start somewhere could staor be bad after that distance and it starts up after it stall out and shuts off i can usually always get it to start right back up and let it idle
	0

02-08-2017, 11:12 PM	#21
jocko7777 Join Date: Jan 2017 Posts: 8	can i place petcock anywehre in the fuel line so i have easy access to shut off can it be placed anywhere ? in the length of the fuel line
	0