Scooter takes 4 tries before starting?

Frank Castle · 02-07-2014, 01:54 AM

Hi dawgs
ok so in the morning when i go to work, when i try to turn on my scoot it takes about 3 to 4 tries, is this normal? ive seen other scoots turn on with the first try

Keep in mind that i live in a warm climate state so its not the cold and this only happens when i turn on the scoot the first time during the day so meaning when it stands still for a long period of time, it happens.

any suggestions...

Rhompin45 · 02-25-2014, 02:29 AM

I was having that problem twice actually both times was after it sat awhile though. The most recent time I just cleaned the carb replaced fuel filter changed all rubber hoses adjusted the valves and new spark plug. And once I got it started just ran it somewhat hard for about 30 mins. It seems to be doing ok now.(fingers crossed)

Frank Castle · 02-25-2014, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rhompin45

I was having that problem twice actually both times was after it sat awhile though. The most recent time I just cleaned the carb replaced fuel filter changed all rubber hoses adjusted the valves and new spark plug. And once I got it started just ran it somewhat hard for about 30 mins. It seems to be doing ok now.(fingers crossed)

thanks for the advice, i will do that

Frank Castle · 04-02-2014, 11:09 PM

Hard Starting Update: ive changed motor oil, gear oil, fuel filter, cdi, spark plug and coil (high performance on all those things) and it is still hard starting and actually there is now a 'puff' and 'poof' sound at the end of the hard start, im thinking it will be a carb issue, if it was a valve adjustment issue like some people have said, would it make a 'poof and puff' sound?

Rhompin45 · 04-03-2014, 01:36 AM

Has it always been this way? It might just need the carb tuned. That is one thing I don't know much about but I know there is a needle placement that can be adjusted up or down. And to be honest I'm not even sure If it adjusts the fuel or air... And there is the air /fuel ratio screw. Or depending on where the scooter came from maybe wrong pilot jet size. But I would guess the latter is the least likely. Sorry I can't help much. I need to do more reading on them.

Rhompin45 · 04-03-2014, 01:50 AM

For your signature it is still a 150cc with the mods you have listed. It will only change one you change the cylinder size. Or the stroke. The stock size is 157mm ish I believe. You can go up to a 159mm and it make it a 158cc roughly or they have bigger cylinders but most require machining to go bigger. Ccs is a compacity (sp)? Of air that will fit in the cylinder. If some one has a better explanation please feel free to correct/ help me. The stroke is how far the piston can travel up and down in the cylinder. So the farther the stroke the more air that can be compressed in the cylinder adding more ccs. And with the stroke your only talking adding 2- 4 mm but it increases the cc out put of the motor much more than the diameter of the cylinder. But to do this splitting the case is required. By doing these things greatly depreciates the life of these little motors though. I hope that makes since.

Frank Castle · 04-03-2014, 02:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rhompin45

Has it always been this way? It might just need the carb tuned. That is one thing I don't know much about but I know there is a needle placement that can be adjusted up or down. And to be honest I'm not even sure If it adjusts the fuel or air... And there is the air /fuel ratio screw. Or depending on where the scooter came from maybe wrong pilot jet size. But I would guess the latter is the least likely. Sorry I can't help much. I need to do more reading on them.

yes, since i bought it (1 yr & 3 mths ago) it has had a hard start, the dealer where i bought the scoot increased the screw on the carb due to the hard start but that didnt work cause ayear later its still doing it

Rhompin45 · 04-03-2014, 02:53 AM

I would say just start playing with the a/f ratio. From where it is count how many turns to fully tight that way you can go back to that point. From there go tighter or looser while its running and get it to idle at the highest rpm. That's where it is suppost to be. Once that's complete then pull the carb apart and spray it all out with carb cleaner. Well I would just clean it first. The pilot jet is a super tiny hole if it get the least little bit of any thing in it it will make it hard to start. Take it out and make sure you can see through it. And if the light is not round then it's clogged.

Rhompin45 · 04-03-2014, 02:54 AM

It may not be dirty since its always been like that but it won't hurt it.

skuttadawg · 04-05-2014, 12:15 AM

You can clean the idle jet as it may need it to be done or opt for a size larger IJ . Have the valves ever been adjusted ? Some need it to be done right out of the crate . All 4Ts will need it done at least once normally around the first 2,000 miles . If they get too tight they do not allow enough fuel and air into the cylinder to start or run correctly . Do you give it any throttle to start it ? My 2T I used to have to give it a sip of throttle to start but after I went from a 40 to a 45 IJ it starts with no throttle and idles like a purring cat . In addition to carb spray a stiff solid wire is great to poke through the tiny holes to remove any film or dirt

blueboy5000 · 04-05-2014, 10:45 AM

Have you adjusted the valves? Valves that are too tight make cold starting difficult.

Frank Castle · 05-03-2014, 08:36 PM

*****Update**** issue was fixed with a new carb & setting up the mixture and speed screws CORRECTLY. I made 2 other threads based on this hard starting issue.

04-05-2014, 10:45 AM	#11
blueboy5000 Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Connecticut Posts: 493	Have you adjusted the valves? Valves that are too tight make cold starting difficult. __________________ 2011 Roketa MC-23-150 4T 150cc 157 qmj 24mm carb w 115 main jet and paper cone air filter Manual petcock w Tygon fuel lines Scrappy Dog Scooters Retro-slash stainless straight-thru exhaust RED spring clutch Adjustable CDI (brand unknown, it's blue and red and works great!) KOSO high performance variator w 12g sliders Gates Powerlink 835-20-30 belt GPS verified 65mph on flats.
	0

02-25-2014, 02:29 AM	#2
Rhompin45 Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Arizona Posts: 79	I was having that problem twice actually both times was after it sat awhile though. The most recent time I just cleaned the carb replaced fuel filter changed all rubber hoses adjusted the valves and new spark plug. And once I got it started just ran it somewhat hard for about 30 mins. It seems to be doing ok now.(fingers crossed)
	0

04-02-2014, 11:09 PM	#4
Frank Castle Banned Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: MIAMI Posts: 196	Hard Starting Update: ive changed motor oil, gear oil, fuel filter, cdi, spark plug and coil (high performance on all those things) and it is still hard starting and actually there is now a 'puff' and 'poof' sound at the end of the hard start, im thinking it will be a carb issue, if it was a valve adjustment issue like some people have said, would it make a 'poof and puff' sound?
	0

04-03-2014, 01:50 AM	#6
Rhompin45 Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Arizona Posts: 79	For your signature it is still a 150cc with the mods you have listed. It will only change one you change the cylinder size. Or the stroke. The stock size is 157mm ish I believe. You can go up to a 159mm and it make it a 158cc roughly or they have bigger cylinders but most require machining to go bigger. Ccs is a compacity (sp)? Of air that will fit in the cylinder. If some one has a better explanation please feel free to correct/ help me. The stroke is how far the piston can travel up and down in the cylinder. So the farther the stroke the more air that can be compressed in the cylinder adding more ccs. And with the stroke your only talking adding 2- 4 mm but it increases the cc out put of the motor much more than the diameter of the cylinder. But to do this splitting the case is required. By doing these things greatly depreciates the life of these little motors though. I hope that makes since.
	0

04-03-2014, 02:53 AM	#8
Rhompin45 Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Arizona Posts: 79	I would say just start playing with the a/f ratio. From where it is count how many turns to fully tight that way you can go back to that point. From there go tighter or looser while its running and get it to idle at the highest rpm. That's where it is suppost to be. Once that's complete then pull the carb apart and spray it all out with carb cleaner. Well I would just clean it first. The pilot jet is a super tiny hole if it get the least little bit of any thing in it it will make it hard to start. Take it out and make sure you can see through it. And if the light is not round then it's clogged.
	0

04-03-2014, 02:54 AM	#9
Rhompin45 Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Arizona Posts: 79	It may not be dirty since its always been like that but it won't hurt it.
	0

04-05-2014, 12:15 AM	#10
skuttadawg Join Date: Jul 2011 Posts: 127	You can clean the idle jet as it may need it to be done or opt for a size larger IJ . Have the valves ever been adjusted ? Some need it to be done right out of the crate . All 4Ts will need it done at least once normally around the first 2,000 miles . If they get too tight they do not allow enough fuel and air into the cylinder to start or run correctly . Do you give it any throttle to start it ? My 2T I used to have to give it a sip of throttle to start but after I went from a 40 to a 45 IJ it starts with no throttle and idles like a purring cat . In addition to carb spray a stiff solid wire is great to poke through the tiny holes to remove any film or dirt
	0

05-03-2014, 08:36 PM	#12
Frank Castle Banned Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: MIAMI Posts: 196	***Update** issue was fixed with a new carb & setting up the mixture and speed screws CORRECTLY. I made 2 other threads based on this hard starting issue.
	0