Won't start

MAH53 · 09-01-2016, 10:22 AM

Have Tao 50 w 100cc big bore kit. Performance carb , air filter n CDI. Ran great then started bogging, eventually ran so poorly took it to shop. Guy said cam off 180 degrees n valves adjusted. Ran fair, but t not like before. Top end and take off way down. Guy also said he changed enriched form new to stock one on stock carb..Now won't crank at all ...finally ran the battery down...recharging now. NeedHELP...FIRST SCOOTER

Shadowfire · 09-04-2016, 01:27 AM

When you put a big bore kit on a bike, you have to make sure that you have the resources (books, online research, knowledgeable friends, carburetor jets and parts) to TUNE THE CARBURETOR after the BBK is installed.

Either find someone who specializes in this type of scooter upgrade to do the tuning, or spend the time researching it and do it yourself (not recommended if its your only transportation), or go back to stock.

(Personally, I recommend just getting a bigger bike and not dicking around with performance enhancements. Much less time wasted.)

A performance CDI (in the absence of serious engineering to determine if a different ignition firing strength is an improvement) is a total waste of money (unless your old CDI was dead).

That all being said, if your carb is using the stock jet and you're running a BBK/performance carb, you're probably running the bike too lean, which could VERY potentially destroy the engine, depending on how lean it is running.

MAH53 · 09-04-2016, 06:23 PM

Thanks....I get ya.....reasearched out the yin yang.....but it's not running at all. The performance carb has bigger jet, after all my research I'm thinkin auto restrictor is bad.Took of top of carb and hardly any fuel is entering. If I twist the throttle bout 30 times it will start, but not run....but wtf do I know. It's my main means of transportation, have a truck that gets bout 8 mpg. Need this running ,bigger bikes or scooters require DL Endorsement, registration, AND insurance....none of which I can afford now. Any further input greatly APPRECIATED

Shadowfire · 09-04-2016, 09:04 PM

The "auto restrictor" (I'm guessing you mean auto-enricher) ONLY impacts the first ~2-3 minutes of runtime. When you first start it and its cold, it delivers an initial slug of extra fuel, and then a constant smaller additional dose of fuel, until the needle closes fully, at which point the carburetor is running at where the engine should be when its warm.

It would only ever cause starting problems if it were somehow physically broken and not withdrawing the needle from the circuit when it gets cold. If the engine dies after running well for a few minutes, it would be something that I would check into, but not if you aren't able to start it to begin with.

So lets start with the basics. SPARK, FUEL, AIR.
1. Have you verified that a spark is present? (Take out the plug, install it in the boot, and using the boot, press it up against the engine block and turn it over; it is immediately obvious whether or not you have a spark).

2. Have you tried taking out the spark plug, spraying some starter fluid inside the cylinder, putting the plug back in and starting it? If it actually tries to start instead of just turn over, its a safe bet that your problem is with fuel delivery and you have a carburetor or gas tank/pump issue.

MAH53 · 09-05-2016, 07:54 AM

Thanks....I do have spark,will try your suggestion...and get back to you

09-04-2016, 01:27 AM	#2
Shadowfire Join Date: Feb 2015 Posts: 121	When you put a big bore kit on a bike, you have to make sure that you have the resources (books, online research, knowledgeable friends, carburetor jets and parts) to TUNE THE CARBURETOR after the BBK is installed. Either find someone who specializes in this type of scooter upgrade to do the tuning, or spend the time researching it and do it yourself (not recommended if its your only transportation), or go back to stock. (Personally, I recommend just getting a bigger bike and not dicking around with performance enhancements. Much less time wasted.) A performance CDI (in the absence of serious engineering to determine if a different ignition firing strength is an improvement) is a total waste of money (unless your old CDI was dead). That all being said, if your carb is using the stock jet and you're running a BBK/performance carb, you're probably running the bike too lean, which could VERY potentially destroy the engine, depending on how lean it is running.
	0

09-04-2016, 09:04 PM	#4
Shadowfire Join Date: Feb 2015 Posts: 121	The "auto restrictor" (I'm guessing you mean auto-enricher) ONLY impacts the first ~2-3 minutes of runtime. When you first start it and its cold, it delivers an initial slug of extra fuel, and then a constant smaller additional dose of fuel, until the needle closes fully, at which point the carburetor is running at where the engine should be when its warm. It would only ever cause starting problems if it were somehow physically broken and not withdrawing the needle from the circuit when it gets cold. If the engine dies after running well for a few minutes, it would be something that I would check into, but not if you aren't able to start it to begin with. So lets start with the basics. SPARK, FUEL, AIR. 1. Have you verified that a spark is present? (Take out the plug, install it in the boot, and using the boot, press it up against the engine block and turn it over; it is immediately obvious whether or not you have a spark). 2. Have you tried taking out the spark plug, spraying some starter fluid inside the cylinder, putting the plug back in and starting it? If it actually tries to start instead of just turn over, its a safe bet that your problem is with fuel delivery and you have a carburetor or gas tank/pump issue.
	0