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#5 |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 493
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Here's the deal with idles;
As high as you can get them WITHOUT the rear wheel moving when bike is on centerstand WHEN BIKE IS FULLY WARMED. Always start a cold bike on it's centerstand. A cold bike will rev higher than it's idle, high enough to spin the rear wheel a good amount. This is normal, and is the result of your ENRICHER. When the bike is fully warm (5-10mins) the rpms will return to what you set your idle at. 2-Ts like a slightly higher idle (1800rpm or so) than 4ts (usually 1600rpm). But it is not unheard of to set either at 2000, it really does not matter where you set the idle as long as the rear wheel does not spin when on the centerstand. To high of an idle will create "surge" at stops and will glaze your clutch bell and friction shoes. I would go so far as to say too high an idle is the #1 cause of clutch problems (well okay # 2, belts is #1)
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2011 Roketa MC-23-150 4T 150cc 157 qmj 24mm carb w 115 main jet and paper cone air filter Manual petcock w Tygon fuel lines Scrappy Dog Scooters Retro-slash stainless straight-thru exhaust RED spring clutch Adjustable CDI (brand unknown, it's blue and red and works great!) KOSO high performance variator w 12g sliders Gates Powerlink 835-20-30 belt GPS verified 65mph on flats. |
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